The topic is short and compact
From the first recipe idea to the production-ready formulation, three to six months is a realistic timeframe.
The accelerated stability testing runs for twelve weeks in the final packaging. Any change in packaging resets it to zero.
A reasonable starting quantity is around 1,000 units per variant, keeping the inventory risk manageable.
So läuft die Entwicklung bei Labtree
1
Konzeptionierung
2
Bemusterung – Standardmuster in 24 h
3
Individualisierung
4
Prototyping
5
Produktion
White Label 2–3 Monate · Private Label 3–6 Monate · Produktion ab 1.000 Stück
At the beginning stands the translation of a design idea into measurable quantities. Mood boards, color references, and positioning texts describe the commercial intent, but do not provide the laboratory with a basis for work. A technical briefing closes this gap before the first laboratory hour is incurred.
It defines the product category, the target group, and the skin type, the desired finish and coverage, the active ingredient concept, as well as explicit exclusion lists, such as fragrance-free, silicone-free, or vegan. Equally important are physical target values: viscosity, spreadability, drying time, and color payoff, each mirrored against specific market products.
Clearly define the product category, target group, and desired finish.
Define the active ingredient concept and exclusion lists before development begins.
Agree on measurable target values instead of descriptive adjectives.
Name reference products against which the sensory profile is mirrored.
From concept to technical briefing
At the beginning stands the translation of a design idea into measurable quantities. Mood boards, color references, and positioning texts describe the commercial intent, but do not provide the laboratory with a basis for work. A technical briefing closes this gap before the first laboratory hour is incurred.
It defines the product category, the target group, and the skin type, the desired finish and coverage, the active ingredient concept, as well as explicit exclusion lists, such as fragrance-free, silicone-free, or vegan. Equally important are physical target values: viscosity, spreadability, drying time, and color payoff, each mirrored against specific market products.
Clearly define the product category, target group, and desired finish.
Define the active ingredient concept and exclusion lists before development begins.
Agree on measurable target values instead of descriptive adjectives.
Name reference products against which the sensory profile is mirrored.
Why Kitchen Recipes Don't Scale
Many brand concepts emerge from small, self-stirred approaches. These samples show an idea, but cannot be transferred to an industrial operation. They are based on non-standardized raw materials, unregulated stirring processes, fluctuating ambient temperatures, and preservation that does not hold up in large-scale batches.
During manufacturing, shear forces, long heating and cooling cycles, and idle times in the vessel take effect. Emulsions that hold in a beaker break under these conditions. Laboratory reformulation therefore replaces non-standardized plant extracts with defined raw material qualities, determines emulsifier ratios, and calibrates a preservation system that withstands industrial storage.
Standardized raw material qualities instead of fluctuating natural extracts.
Defined emulsifier ratios against phase separation in large-scale batches.
Preservation designed for industrial idle times.
The sampling phase: Evaluating texture and packaging together
In the sampling phase, chemistry becomes a tangible product. Initial laboratory samples allow for the evaluation of texture, skin feel, absorption behavior, fragrance profile, and color effect. For color cosmetics, pigment distribution, streak-free blending, buildability, and undertone are paramount.
The most common mistake in this phase is evaluating the formulation separately from the packaging. A serum can be sensorially convincing and yet drip, splash, or clog in the intended pump. Viscosity, surface tension, and flow behavior determine whether the product is dispensed cleanly. Samples should therefore go into the candidate container right from the start.
Evaluate sensory profile and dispensing behavior together, not sequentially.
Test samples directly in the candidate container, not in laboratory glassware.
For color cosmetics, assess the shade under standardized daylight.
How the shade release is technically secured is described in Nuancenentwicklung für Make-up.
Mandatory tests: stability and preservation
Before release for production, the technical validation takes place. A cosmetic product must maintain its physical, chemical, and microbiological nature over its declared shelf life. For this, accelerated stability testing exposes the final formulation to elevated temperatures for over twelve weeks, typically 40 and 45 degrees Celsius, supplemented by room temperature and freeze-thaw cycles.
The pH value, viscosity, emulsion structure, color, odor, and the content of sensitive active ingredients are tested. It is crucial that the testing is carried out in the final packaging. If the packaging is changed after the start of testing, the period begins anew, because interactions between the formulation and the container must be re-evaluated. Preservation is proven separately via a challenge test according to ISO 11930, with targeted inoculation and measurement over 28 days.
Twelve weeks of accelerated storage in the final packaging.
A change of packaging after the start of testing resets the period back to zero.
Challenge test according to ISO 11930 with defined germ strains over 28 days.
The full scope of testing is described in Stability and safety testing.
Consider manufacturability right from the start
A stable sample of 500 grams in a beaker says little about whether the same formulation works in a vessel with several hundred kilograms. On an industrial scale, the ratio of surface area to volume, the duration of heating and cooling cycles, and the shear force input of the homogenizers change.
In the pilot batch, the temperature profile, emulsification speed, cooling curve, and addition sequence are therefore determined. If the formulation is based on shear-sensitive thickeners, even pumping can permanently reduce the viscosity. In the case of hot filling, for example with sticks and balms, the filling temperature window determines the surface appearance and sink marks.
Pilot batch in the range of about 50 to 100 kilograms before mass production.
Document temperature profile, cooling curve, and addition sequence in a binding manner.
Identify shear-sensitive thickeners early and limit pumping pathways.
The structured process is described in Skalierung über die Pilotcharge.
Regulations: Safety Assessment, PIF and CPNP
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 applies to placing products on the EU market. Every brand must designate a responsible person established within the Union. This person is liable for compliance with the requirements and is the point of contact for market surveillance.
Three elements are mandatory. The safety assessment is prepared and signed by a professionally qualified person; it includes the toxicological data of the raw materials in Part A and the assessment in Part B. The product information file bundles formulation, test reports, manufacturing details, and labeling, and must be presented upon request. Notification in the European CPNP portal takes place before placing on the market.
Designate a responsible person established in the EU.
Safety assessment with Part A and Part B by a qualified person.
Keep the product information file complete and up to date.
Complete CPNP notification before placing on the market.
The complete process is described in EU Cosmetics Regulation, CPNP and PIF.
The first series production is less of a technical and more of a logistical task. A sensible starting quantity is around 1,000 units per variant. This order of magnitude keeps capital commitment manageable and at the same time achieves a viable unit costs point.
The actual bottleneck is simultaneity. Raw materials must be delivered and released, packaging materials checked, the bulk produced in a documented manner, filled, labeled, and finally released. If one component is missing, the entire batch stands still. The production slot must therefore be planned backwards from the desired market entry, with a buffer for the releases.
Starting quantity of around 1,000 units per variant as a starting point.
Manage raw material and packaging material release as separate milestones.
Plan the production slot backwards from market entry, with a buffer.
Which minimum quantities are common and what they result from is covered in Lohnherstellung von Kosmetik.
More useful links
FAQ
How long does the development of a new cosmetic product take?
From the first formulation idea to the production-ready formulation, realistically three to six months will pass. This includes formulation development, laboratory work, sample phase, and the mandatory stability testing. The twelve weeks of stability testing cannot be shortened.
What is accelerated stability testing?
The product is stored for twelve weeks at an elevated temperature, typically at 40 and 45 degrees Celsius, supplemented by room temperature and freeze-thaw cycles. The pH value, viscosity, emulsion structure, color, odor, and active ingredient content are monitored to ensure shelf life over the intended period.
What happens if I change the packaging during the test?
The testing starts from scratch. The stability test is carried out in the final packaging because the formulation and container can react with each other, for example through migration of components or oxygen ingress. A change after the start of testing invalidates the previous results.
What is a preservation challenge test?
The challenge test according to ISO 11930 examines how well a formulation withstands microbial contamination. It is specifically inoculated with five defined strains of microorganisms, and the germ count is monitored over 28 days. This proves that the preservation system works reliably during use.
Which regulatory steps are necessary before the sale?
Under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, three elements are mandatory: a safety assessment signed by a qualified person, a complete product information file, and notification in the European CPNP portal. In addition, a responsible person based in the EU must be designated.
What starting quantity is realistic for a new brand?
A reasonable starting quantity is around 1,000 units per variant. This volume keeps capital commitment manageable and at the same time achieves a viable unit costs point. The specific minimum quantity depends on the product type, packaging material, and filling technology.
