The topic is short and compact
A physical sample clarifies texture, color effect, fragrance, and application that a concept paper leaves open, providing all departments with a common point of reference.
A laboratory sample does not prove stability, preservation, or packaging compatibility; these are tested on the final formulation in the intended container.
Sensory adjustments must be made before starting stability testing, because the tested formulation must match the product being sold.
The approved sample with specification and sealed reference sample becomes the benchmark for pilot and production batches.
A three-stage budget—direction, formulation, and production—only ties up funds once their basis has been clarified using samples or test results.
So läuft die Entwicklung bei Labtree
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Konzeptionierung
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Bemusterung – Standardmuster in 24 h
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Individualisierung
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Prototyping
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Produktion
White Label 2–3 Monate · Private Label 3–6 Monate · Produktion ab 1.000 Stück
Why is a concept paper not sufficient for budget approval?
A concept paper describes goals: light texture, high coverage, fast absorption, silky finish. Product management, marketing, purchasing, and executive management interpret these terms differently. As long as no product is on the table, each department agrees to a different vision, and approval appears more unanimous than it actually is.
In addition, texture is not purely a formulation characteristic. In emulsions, process variables such as emulsification speed influence droplet size, and droplet size and distribution affect flow behavior, elasticity, and thus the perceived texture, as a review paper on emulsified cosmetics in ACS Omega summarizes. A description on paper cannot capture these interactions.
Typical consequences when the budget is approved solely on a conceptual basis:
With makeup, payoff, coverage, or shade deviate from the brief, especially if nuances were only defined as a color code or mood board.
The texture of a cream or serum feels different on the first sample than expected, and the timeline was calculated without an additional sample round.
Packaging materials are requested or ordered before it is clear whether viscosity and applicator are compatible.
Each of these discrepancies reopens decisions that were already considered finalized in the budget. Internal approval rounds then have to be rescheduled.
Which questions does a pre-release sample answer?
A physical sample answers the questions that determine direction, target audience, and development effort. It replaces subjective terms with a shared point of reference because everyone involved is holding the exact same product.
Makeup: Color payoff on different skin tones, coverage, payoff, blendability, finish, and the interplay with the intended applicator, such as with concealers, skin tints, blushes, or mascaras.
Skincare: texture in the jar or dispenser, spreadability, absorption, skin residue, and scent effect for creams, serums, or cleansers.
Positioning: whether texture and look and feel align with the planned price point and the benchmark product against which the product will be compared on the shelf.
Need for adaptation: whether an existing, tested formulation is sufficient with minor adjustments, or if a completely new development is required.
The final question carries the greatest commercial impact. Whether an adaptation or a new development is pursued determines the development effort, testing scope, and timeline more significantly than any detail decision regarding fragrance or shade. Just how drastically this fork in the road shifts the schedule is highlighted in the article on realistic timelines in cosmetics development.
What does a laboratory prototype not yet prove?
A laboratory sample demonstrates the direction, not market readiness. Stability, preservation, and skin compatibility with the packaging material are only verified on the final formulation. According to Article 10(1) of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, every cosmetic product requires a safety assessment prior to being placed on the market and a safety report in accordance with Annex I, which also encompasses stability under reasonably foreseeable storage conditions.
The Guidelines on Annex I in Commission Implementing Decision 2013/674/EU highlight two points that are crucial for budget planning. First, it must be demonstrated that the composition used in the stability test corresponds to the product actually placed on the market. Second, physical stability tests are carried out using inert containers and the containers intended for marketing.
For planning purposes, this means:
A change in formulation after the start of the stability test can trigger a new test. Sensory adjustments should therefore be made prior to this step.
The packaging material must be determined before testing in the final container begins. Switching from a tube to an airless dispenser is no longer a mere formality after that point.
The efficacy of preservation is tested in the challenge test. In this test, the product is inoculated with bacteria, yeasts, and molds and evaluated at specified intervals over 28 days, as described in the review of preservation strategies by Halla et al.
The complete scope of testing is covered in the article on stability and safety testing for cosmetics.
How do you evaluate patterns in a structured way?
Samples become reliable when they are evaluated against predefined criteria rather than spontaneous impressions. A concise evaluation sheet that is agreed upon before the samples arrive and completed by all participants under identical conditions has proven effective.
Criterion | How it is evaluated | Who decides |
|---|---|---|
Color and coverage (make-up) | Application on multiple skin tones, evaluation under daylight and artificial light, photos under identical conditions | Product Management, Marketing |
Texture and sensory profile | Comparison with the benchmark product, same application amount, evaluation immediately and a few minutes after application | Product Management |
Fragrance | Evaluation of the product on the skin, not on a scent strip | Marketing |
Application with packaging | Test samples in a comparable dispenser, tube, or with the intended applicator, where available | Operations, Purchasing |
Planned advertising claims | List of claims along with the evidence required for each | Product Management, responsible person |
Two rules enhance the reliability of the results: Evaluate intensities such as coverage or stickiness separately from personal preference. And record feedback as specific change requests, such as "less residue after two minutes" instead of "more pleasant". Consolidated, unambiguous feedback provides the foundation for making the next round of samples targeted and effective.
A separate standard applies to advertising claims. According to the common criteria of Regulation (EU) No 655/2013, claims must be substantiated by adequate and verifiable evidence, and studies must be relevant to the product and the claimed benefit. An internal sample assessment does not constitute such evidence. However, it shows early on which claims are planned and which studies therefore need to be budgeted for.
Standard sample or customized laboratory sample: Which is suitable when?
Standard samples from existing, tested formulations are suitable for clarifying the direction before committing development budget. Individual laboratory samples are necessary as soon as brand-specific properties are required, such as a proprietary shade range, a specific active ingredient combination, or a texture that no existing base achieves.
Labtree is a B2B cosmetics developer and cosmetics manufacturer with its own laboratory and production capacities in Germany. Formulation development, proprietary laboratory work, sampling, manufacturability testing, and cosmetics production are under one responsibility, turning concepts into laboratory samples, manufacturable formulations, and finished cosmetic products. Samples of pre-qualified formulations generally leave the sample warehouse within 24 hours, and shipping of standard samples is free of charge. Individual sample quantities are created in our own laboratory. The process follows the steps of conceptualization, sampling, customization, prototyping, and production; the minimum order quantity is generally 1,500 units per product, depending on the product type, fill size, and packaging.
The choice between the two sample types has direct consequences for the schedule. At Labtree, white-label products based on tested formulations with standard packaging are generally deliverable in 2 to 3 months, while new private-label developments usually take 3 to 6 months to reach market readiness. The distinction between both models is described in the article on advantages and limits of white label.
How can the budget be linked to pattern decisions?
Instead of releasing the entire budget at the start of the project, it is recommended to tie approval to three decision points. Each stage only commits funds once the basis for doing so has already been clarified on the sample or through test results.
Stage | Basis | What is approved | Cost drivers |
|---|---|---|---|
1. Direction | Standard sample, comparison with benchmark | Effort for customization and custom laboratory samples | Number of variants and shades, adaptation or new development |
2. formulation | Approved laboratory sample, completed evaluation sheet | Stability testing, stress test, safety assessment, packaging material samples | Number of packaging types and shades in the test plan, test duration, substantiation of claims |
3. Production | Test results, near-series prototype in final packaging | Packaging material order, artwork, first batch | Minimum order quantity of packaging material, minimum order quantity of product |
The duration of the second stage depends on the product. According to the Cosmetics Europe Stability Guidelines, accelerated storage tests are frequently carried out at 37, 40, or 45 °C for one, two, or three months; temperature and duration depend on the product type. The guideline also advises testing each intended packaging type—using the smallest container if there are multiple sizes—and determining which shades or fragrance variants will be included in the study.
A foundation or concealer range with many shades in two container sizes therefore increases the scope of testing before the first batch is produced. Those who define the number of shades and packaging in Stage 1 based on the sample can reliably calculate the costs of Stage 2. What you need to anticipate regarding the budget of an entire line is explained in the article on budget planning for a private label cosmetics line.
The most recently released sample is more than just a decision stage. It becomes the reference against which pilot and production batches are measured. For this to work, you should record the following upon approval:
formulation status with version number and date of release.
Measurable specifications such as appearance, color, odor, pH value, and viscosity with tolerances, insofar as they are relevant to the product.
A sealed reference sample held by both the brand and the manufacturer; for makeup, one per shade.
Open points that will only be decided after stability testing.
The background is both practical and regulatory. The guidelines for Annex I require that the specifications of the finished product, along with the respective reference methods, be stated in the safety report. The Cosmetics Europe stability guideline recommends selecting the type of batch tested—whether laboratory, pilot, or production batch—so that it is representative of subsequent production. A specification established based on the approved sample links both aspects and later serves as a benchmark for batch release.
The Cosmetic Product Safety Report according to Article 11 of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 contains a description of the manufacturing method in addition to the safety report and is retained for ten years after the last batch has been placed on the market. Clean sample documentation makes it easier to maintain this file consistently.
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FAQ
How much do samples cost from a cosmetics manufacturer?
This depends on whether standard samples or customized laboratory samples are required. With Labtree, shipping standard samples of pre-qualified formulations is free of charge. The effort required for customized laboratory samples depends on the number of variants, nuances, and adjustment rounds; clarify before the project starts how this effort will be billed.
How many sample rounds should you plan for?
There is no fixed number. Adapting a tested formulation usually takes fewer rounds than a completely new development, while shade ranges in make-up often require more than a single skincare product. Be sure to schedule the rounds explicitly in your timeline and consolidate feedback for each round; the magazine article "Cosmetics Development: Realistic Timelines and What Factors Determine Them" covers this in more depth.
Who owns the formulation if a sample was developed individually?
This is governed by the service model and the contract. With White Label, the tested standard formulation remains with the manufacturer. With Private Label, the formulation is newly developed according to your requirements, and rights or exclusivity can be contractually transferred to the brand; learn more in the article "Confidentiality with the contract manufacturer: NDA and formulation ownership".
Can a benchmark product serve as a template for sampling?
Yes, a benchmark product is a common starting point because it provides a tangible reference for texture, color payoff, and application. While the benchmark's INCI list specifies the ingredients, it does not reveal concentrations or the manufacturing process. Therefore, the sample is evaluated against the benchmark's target attributes rather than being developed as a direct copy. Determine in advance which characteristics your product should match and where it should differ.
Does the sample already have to be in the final packaging?
Not for determining the general direction—a comparable dispenser or applicator is often enough. For stability testing, however, it is: According to the EU guidelines for Annex I, physical stability tests are carried out using inert containers as well as the containers intended for marketing.
How long does the inspection take after sample approval?
This depends on the product type and test plan. In accordance with Cosmetics Europe guidelines, accelerated stability tests often run for one to three months at 37, 40, or 45 °C, while the preservative challenge test takes 28 days. Packaging materials and artwork can be prepared in parallel during this time.
What happens if the production batch deviates from the approved sample?
The batch is checked against the defined specification and the sealed reference sample. If values such as viscosity, color, or pH are out of tolerance, it is not released until the cause has been determined. In the case of emulsions, the cause may lie in the process, such as emulsification time, shear, or temperature control on a larger scale.
