Samples before budget approval in cosmetics development: Why early physical evidence makes decisions more resilient

Samples before budget approval in cosmetics development: Why early physical evidence makes decisions more resilient

12 min read

Jorit Tessmann

Jorit Tessmann

CEO & Founder at Labtree GmbH

Decisions about cosmetic products are often made on concept papers during the concept phase. As soon as the first physical samples arrive, many topics that were considered settled have to be reopened. Early sampling shifts decisions from theory to reality.

The topic is short and compact

Early patterns shift decisions from theory to reality, reducing subsequent iterations.

At Labtree, standard samples of pre-qualified formulations are shipped within 24 hours, free of charge.

Even during the individualization phase, decisions are based on real samples, not hypothetical descriptions.

If the first physical samples are only available weeks after the project start, many decisions are made in the meantime based on concept papers, texture descriptions, performance expectations, application scenarios. Once the samples are there, topics that had been formally resolved often have to be reopened:

  • The texture feels different than expected

  • The application deviates from the theoretical conception

  • Performance does not match the projected effect

The result: sampling loops that were not included in the original schedule.

Why decisions at the conceptual level create risks

If the first physical samples are only available weeks after the project start, many decisions are made in the meantime based on concept papers, texture descriptions, performance expectations, application scenarios. Once the samples are there, topics that had been formally resolved often have to be reopened:

  • The texture feels different than expected

  • The application deviates from the theoretical conception

  • Performance does not match the projected effect

The result: sampling loops that were not included in the original schedule.

What early patterns structurally change

As soon as a physical sample is available, discussions become concrete. Three effects:

  • Basis for decision-making shifts: Instead of theoretical evaluation, the focus is on the real sensory experience, smell, texture, and application feel.

  • Adjustment requests become more precise: Brands can state concretely what they want differently, instead of formulating in abstract terms.

  • Stakeholder alignment accelerates: Internal feedback from marketing, product management, and executive management becomes concrete because everyone is holding the same product in their hands.

How sampling works at Labtree

Labtree works with its own formulation database of over 1,000 formulations. Standard samples of pre-qualified formulations are shipped from the sample warehouse within 24 hours. Shipping is free of charge for customers.

This enables:

  • Evaluation of multiple formulation databases in parallel

  • Fast iteration: customization requests flow directly into the next round of samples

  • Decisions on direction and depth of customization prior to full budget commitment

When individual patterns are also useful

Standard samples are suitable for validating direction. For brand-specific properties, such as special active ingredient combinations or specific texture adjustments, individual samples are developed in the laboratory. These go through a short formulation and stability step before shipping.

Advantage: Even in the customisation phase, decisions are based on real samples, not on hypothetical descriptions.

What is running differently in the overall project as a result

With early sampling, the decision point in the project shifts:

  • Before budget approval: Brands have physical evidence that the formulation in reality corresponds to what they want

  • After budget approval: The individualization phase becomes more targeted because it builds on a reliable starting basis

  • In production: Fewer returns from product management because adaptation requests were already clarified during the sampling phase

In-depth sources: The legal basis for all cosmetic products marketed in the EU is the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. In Germany, the health assessment of ingredients is the responsibility of the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR). Industry information and market data are published by the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW).

Conclusion

Samples prior to budget approval shift decisions from the concept phase to the reality phase. This reduces later loops and makes the time-to-market more predictable. A prerequisite is a formulation base that is quickly available; standard samples within 24 hours is a realistic benchmark.

Related articles: Having Vitamin C Serum produced · Having Hyaluronic Acid Serum produced · Strategic choice of active ingredient

FAQ

Does Labtree have its own laboratory?

Yes. Labtree has its own development expertise, including a laboratory. This means that formulations can not only be selected, but specifically developed, tested, and adjusted. Additionally, smaller test batches can be produced in-house in order to validate products early on in real conditions and safely transfer them to production.

How quickly are samples available?

Standard samples of pre-qualified formulations are shipped from the sample warehouse within 24 hours. Shipping is free of charge for customers.

How much do samples cost?

Standard sample shipping is free of charge for customers. Individually developed samples from the laboratory phase are calculated depending on the project and are usually offset against subsequent development costs.

Why is a concept paper not enough?

Concept descriptions are helpful for direction, but leave the sensory reality—texture, scent, application feel—open. As soon as a sample is available, many discussions that were previously abstract become concrete.

When do individual patterns make sense?

Individual samples are developed in the laboratory for brand-specific properties, special active ingredient combinations, or specific texture adjustments. Standard samples serve to determine the initial direction.

How many rounds of samples are typical?

With a formulation base as a starting point, one to two sample rounds are usually sufficient to determine the direction. For completely new active ingredient concepts, several iterations may be necessary, each with a stability test in between.

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