Developing intimate and oral care products: regulation, preservation, and minimum quantities

Developing intimate and oral care products: regulation, preservation, and minimum quantities

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Jorit Tessmann

Jorit Tessmann

CEO & Founder at Labtree GmbH

Intimate and oral care are considered growth categories, but differ significantly from classic skincare from a technical perspective. Both come into contact with mucous membranes, both are subject to e

The topic is short and compact

Mucous membrane contact lowers the permitted concentrations of many preservatives and significantly narrows the selection of raw materials.

Dental care products can be classified as either cosmetics or medical devices depending on their claims, which changes the entire regulatory approval pathway.

Due to special filling, the minimum quantities are often higher than for standard care and should be clarified before formulation development.

The most important difference between intimate or oral care and classic facial care is not the target group, but the tissue. Mucous membrane does not have a keratinized protective layer like the epidermis provides. Substances are therefore absorbed faster and to a greater extent, and irritation potential has a more immediate effect.

For the formulation, this results in a series of hard limits. Surfactants must be chosen to be significantly milder and dosed lower. The pH value cannot be chosen freely, but must follow the physiological environment, typically in the slightly acidic range in the intimate area. Fragrances and colorants are usually completely omitted because their benefit does not justify the risk.

  • No keratinized barrier: higher absorption, lower tolerance to irritants.

  • pH management based on the physiological environment instead of the sensory profile.

  • Dispensing with fragrances and colorants as a rule, not an exception.

  • Observe osmolarity so that the product does not dry out the mucous membrane.

These requirements are similar to those for baby and sensitive cosmetics: a deliberately short, well-characterized formulation is the technically superior way, not a waiver of performance.

Why mucosal contact changes the formulation

The most important difference between intimate or oral care and classic facial care is not the target group, but the tissue. Mucous membrane does not have a keratinized protective layer like the epidermis provides. Substances are therefore absorbed faster and to a greater extent, and irritation potential has a more immediate effect.

For the formulation, this results in a series of hard limits. Surfactants must be chosen to be significantly milder and dosed lower. The pH value cannot be chosen freely, but must follow the physiological environment, typically in the slightly acidic range in the intimate area. Fragrances and colorants are usually completely omitted because their benefit does not justify the risk.

  • No keratinized barrier: higher absorption, lower tolerance to irritants.

  • pH management based on the physiological environment instead of the sensory profile.

  • Dispensing with fragrances and colorants as a rule, not an exception.

  • Observe osmolarity so that the product does not dry out the mucous membrane.

These requirements are similar to those for baby and sensitive cosmetics: a deliberately short, well-characterized formulation is the technically superior way, not a waiver of performance.

The regulatory classification decides the entire path

Before a formulation is created, the product category must be determined. In the case of oral care, this has more far-reaching consequences than in any other category. A toothpaste that claims cleaning and caries protection through fluoride is a cosmetic product according to Regulation (EC) 1223/2009. If, on the other hand, a therapeutic effect is claimed, such as the treatment of periodontitis, the classification shifts towards a medical device or medicinal product with a completely different authorization pathway.

Similarly for intimate care: A cleansing product is cosmetic. However, as soon as an anti-infective effect is claimed, the product leaves the cosmetic framework. Lubricants also regularly fall under medical device law and not under the Cosmetics Regulation.

  • Cosmetic: Cleaning, care, odor control, fluoride caries protection.

  • No longer cosmetic: Treatment of diseases, anti-infective claims, lubricants.

  • The classification follows the claim, not the formulation alone.

This decision must be made before development because it determines the scope of testing, documentation, and schedule. Anyone making this decision after the fact regularly invalidates testing that has already been completed. How claims control the scope of testing is also described in EU advertising claims.

Preservation: the actual technical bottleneck

Both categories are water-rich and are applied with the hands or in the mouth, meaning under a high recontamination load. At the same time, many common preservatives are only restricted or not approved at all for mucosal applications, and the maximum allowable concentrations are lower than for leave-on skincare.

The solution lies not in omitting them, but in making the formulation itself microbiologically more robust. A reduced water content, lowered water activity, a pH range unfavorable for germs, and multifunctional raw materials with secondary antimicrobial action reduce the necessary need for preservation. In the case of oral care, high sugar alcohol contents lower the water activity significantly anyway.

  • Lower water activity instead of increasing preservation.

  • Manage the pH so that it fits physiologically while simultaneously inhibiting germ growth.

  • Use multifunctional raw materials that provide care and protection at the same time.

  • Prevent recontamination from the packaging side, for example via airless or tube systems.

Proof is subsequently provided by means of a challenge test according to ISO 11930 on the final formulation in the final packaging. For these categories, this test is not a formalism, but the actual proof of safety. Details on the scope of testing can be found in Stability and safety testing.

Packaging and bottling as a separate project

Both categories use packaging materials that are rare in standard cosmetics. Toothpaste is filled into tubes with a barrier layer and requires a filling line for highly viscous masses with defined headspace control. Mouthwash is low-viscosity and requires a completely different line. Intimate care is often filled into airless or dispenser systems, sometimes with an applicator.

In practice, this means that not every contract manufacturer can produce both categories, and that a change of packaging material in the middle of the project can call the production partner into question. The packaging decision should therefore be made early and bindingly before the testing phase starts.

  • Tube filling for pastes with barrier requirements.

  • Low-viscosity filling for rinses, different line and different tolerances.

  • Airless and applicator systems for intimate care, often with leak testing.

  • Check material compatibility, because packaging materials can bind preservatives.

Why a late packaging decision is so expensive is shown in Shorten time-to-market: A change after the tests have been completed resets the twelve-week stability test back to zero.

Minimum quantities and realistic calculation

The minimum order quantities in both categories are often higher than for standard care. The reason is not the formulation, but the facility. Special filling requires setup times and cleaning cycles that only pay off from certain volumes. In the case of toothpaste, there is the additional factor that tubes are often printed with proprietary tooling, which creates its own minimum quantity at the packaging level.

For the calculation, this means: The minimum quantity applies per variant and per container size, and the packaging minimum quantity can exceed the formulation minimum quantity. Anyone starting with three flavors is effectively planning three batches plus three packaging orders.

  • Minimum quantity per variant, not per product line.

  • Check packaging minimum quantity separately; it is often the limiting factor.

  • Include setup and cleaning costs of the special line in the unit price.

A compact starter range with one or two variants is therefore almost always the economically better decision than a broad launch

What you should demand from a development partner

Not every cosmetics manufacturer can map these categories. The decisive factor is less the price and more the question of whether the partner manages the regulatory classification properly, has the appropriate filling technology, and can reliably prove the preservation for mucosal applications.

Therefore, demand an early written classification of the product category, a statement on the available filling technology including minimum quantities, and a testing concept that provides for challenge testing on the final packaging. If one of these three points is missing, the project timeline is not reliable.

  • Written classification as a cosmetic, medical device, or pharmaceutical before the start of development.

  • Proof of the appropriate filling technology and the associated minimum quantities.

  • Testing concept including ISO 11930 on the final formulation-packaging combination.

  • Clear assignment of who is responsible for the product information file and safety assessment.

As a B2B cosmetics developer and manufacturer, Labtree works in this order: first classification and feasibility, then formulation development in our own laboratory,

FAQ

Is toothpaste a cosmetic or a medical device?

That depends on the claims made. Cleaning, care, and caries protection through fluoride are cosmetic and fall under Regulation (EC) 1223/2009. If a therapeutic effect is claimed, such as the treatment of periodontitis, the classification shifts towards a medical device or medicinal product with a completely different approval process. The decision must be made prior to development.

Why is preservation more difficult in intimate and oral care?

Mucous membranes do not have a keratinized protective layer, which is why many preservatives are only restricted or not permitted at all, and the maximum concentrations are lower. At the same time, the products are rich in water and are applied under a high risk of recontamination. The solution lies in making the formulation more robust by managing water activity, pH, and multifunctional raw materials.

Can any contract manufacturer produce these products?

No. Toothpaste requires a tube line for highly viscous masses, mouthwash a line for low-viscosity products, and intimate care often requires airless or applicator systems. These filling lines are rarely combined in one facility. The filling technology should therefore be clarified before the formulation development.

Why are the minimum quantities higher than for normal care?

Not because of the formulation, but because of the plant. Special filling requires setup times and cleaning cycles that only pay off above certain volumes. For tubes, there is also a separate minimum packaging quantity, which can exceed the minimum formulation quantity. The minimum quantity also applies per variant.

Which pH value is correct for intimate care?

The pH should mimic the physiological environment and is typically in the weakly acidic range. It is therefore not a matter of sensory design leeway, but rather a formulation parameter that also inhibits microbial growth. Upward deviations can disrupt the natural environment.

Which exams are mandatory?

Accelerated stability testing, packaging compatibility, and a preservative efficacy test according to ISO 11930, each conducted on the final formulation in the final packaging. Additionally, the safety assessment and notification in the European portal. In the case of mucosal contact, an particularly careful skin compatibility assessment is also required.

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