Active ingredient strategy in cosmetics: How brands distinguish between buzz and substance
Active ingredient strategy in cosmetics: How brands distinguish between buzz and substance
12 min read
Business Development at Labtree GmbH
Hyaluronic acid, retinol, niacinamide, peptides, exosomes, the list of widely discussed active ingredients is long. Which ones are substantial, which are marketing buzz, and how do brands choose strategically?
The topic is short and compact
Four dimensions for active ingredient evaluation: evidence, stability, regulatory, interactions.
Hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C derivatives, retinol, and peptides have a solid evidence base.
Hype active ingredients (exosomes, some microbiome actives) require a particularly critical evaluation.
1. Scientific Evidence. Which published studies prove the mechanism of action? In which concentrations?
2. Stability. Will the active ingredient last in the planned formulation over the shelf life?
3. Regulatory Clarity. In which concentration is the active ingredient approved? Which advertising claims are substantiated?
4. Interactions. How does the active ingredient interact with other components of the formulation?
The four evaluation dimensions
1. Scientific Evidence. Which published studies prove the mechanism of action? In which concentrations?
2. Stability. Will the active ingredient last in the planned formulation over the shelf life?
3. Regulatory Clarity. In which concentration is the active ingredient approved? Which advertising claims are substantiated?
4. Interactions. How does the active ingredient interact with other components of the formulation?
Active ingredients with solid evidence
Hyaluronic acid: Widely researched, stabilized formulations established. Logical concentrations depending on molecular size.
Niacinamide: Multifunctional, well-tolerated, wide concentration range (2-10 percent).
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid and derivatives): Stability challenge, pure L-ascorbic acid requires special formulation. Derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ethyl ascorbic acid) are more stable.
Retinol & derivatives: Well-documented scientifically. Stability-sensitive, skin compatibility management important.
Peptides: Growing evidence base, great variety with different action profiles.
Salicylic acid: Classic with clear indication, regulatory limits clearly defined.
Active ingredients with hype potential, what needs to be checked
Exosomes: Current research under development, regulatory status in EU cosmetics not clear. Hype potential high, cleanly communicable efficacy claims still limited.
Stem Cell Extracts: Conceptually misleading (real stem cells vs. extracts), pay attention to regulatory limits.
Microbiome actives: Conservative claims (barrier, pH) easily implementable; specific microbiome influence harder to prove.
'Bio-Inspired' Peptide Combinations: High variety, evidence quality varies greatly, individual assessment necessary.
active ingredient interactions: what to look out for
Combinations of active ingredients cannot be stacked arbitrarily. Examples of interactions that must be addressed in the formulation:
Vitamin C and Retinol: pH conflict, separate formulations or time offset required
Hyaluronic acid and ionic active ingredients: Can influence viscosity behavior
Acid-based active ingredients: AHA/BHA in combination require pH management
Plant extracts: Mutual skin compatibility must be validated
These interactions are tested in the laboratory during the sampling and individualization phase.
How an active ingredient strategy is structured
Brand positioning: What does the brand promise in concrete terms? Anti-aging, hydration, barrier, clarification?
Selection of main active ingredients: 1–2 active ingredients with solid evidence that fit the promise
Supporting active ingredients: 2–3 additional components that complement the profile (barrier, skin compatibility)
Stability and skin compatibility plan: Which tests are performed, in which order?
Advertising claims mapping: What can concreteley be communicated? What needs to be proven?
In-depth sources: The legal basis for all cosmetic products marketed in the EU is the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. In Germany, the health assessment of ingredients is the responsibility of the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR). Industry information and market data are published by the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW).
Conclusion
A sound active ingredient strategy is the foundation for brand credibility and consumer trust. Anyone who evaluates scientific evidence, stability, regulatory issues, and interactions early on develops products with robust substance and avoids the typical buzzword traps.
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FAQ
Does Labtree have its own laboratory?
Yes. Labtree has its own development expertise, including a laboratory. This means that formulations can not only be selected, but specifically developed, tested, and adjusted. Additionally, smaller test batches can be produced in-house in order to validate products early on in real conditions and safely transfer them to production.
Which active ingredients have the strongest evidence?
Hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C derivatives, retinol and retinol derivatives, classic peptides, salicylic acid. They have a decades-long research basis and clearly defined mechanisms of action.
Are exosomes effective in cosmetics?
Research is still developing. Initial studies show potential, but regulatory clarity and stable formulations are currently limited in EU cosmetics. Cautious communication and critical evaluation are recommended.
Can I combine Vitamin C and retinol?
Problematic in a single formulation due to pH conflict. Common approach: separate products for day (Vitamin C) and night (Retinol). Within the product itself, Vitamin C derivatives (e.g., Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) are more compatible with retinoids than pure L-Ascorbic Acid.
How many active ingredients should be in a product?
Rule of thumb: 1–2 main active ingredients with clear indication, plus 2–3 supporting active ingredients. More leads to interaction and stability problems without a clear benefit in efficacy.
Which advertising claims are regulatorily permissible?
Efficacy claims must be verifiable and must not be relevant under pharmaceutical law. The EU Claims Regulation 655/2013 provides the framework. Specific claims should be supported by in vitro, in vivo, or consumer-based studies.
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