Assessing cosmetic trends for feasibility: A systematic R&D method
Assessing cosmetic trends for feasibility: A systematic R&D method
12 min read
Business Development at Labtree GmbH
Identifying trends is easy; implementing trends technically and economically is the real challenge. A systematic R&D method reduces bad investments.
The topic is short and compact
Four feasibility dimensions: technical, regulatory, economic, and market-related.
Early evaluation in the concept and sampling phase prevents bad investments.
A standardized quick assessment in 1–2 weeks delivers a reliable go/no-go decision.
First question: Can the trend be implemented in a stable formulation?
Stability: Do the postulated active ingredients remain stable over the desired shelf life?
Interactions: Are the active ingredient combinations compatible?
Formulation tolerance: Can the formulation be reproducibly manufactured in industrial mixers?
Concentration options: What are the realistic concentration ranges in which the active ingredient is effective and stable?
Early stability and miscibility tests in the laboratory clarify these questions. With integrated development partners, these are carried out without a separate contract.
Dimension 1: Technical feasibility
First question: Can the trend be implemented in a stable formulation?
Stability: Do the postulated active ingredients remain stable over the desired shelf life?
Interactions: Are the active ingredient combinations compatible?
Formulation tolerance: Can the formulation be reproducibly manufactured in industrial mixers?
Concentration options: What are the realistic concentration ranges in which the active ingredient is effective and stable?
Early stability and miscibility tests in the laboratory clarify these questions. With integrated development partners, these are carried out without a separate contract.
Dimension 2: Regulatory Feasibility
Second question: What is the trend allowed to communicate and contain?
Approved ingredients: Are all components approved in the EU Cosmetics Annex?
Concentration limits: Are regulatory upper limits complied with?
Advertising claims: Which efficacy promises are proven and permissible?
Target market specifics: Are there differences between the EU, UK, US, and other markets?
Regulatory assessment at an early stage, before marketing concepts, avoids the development of promises that cannot be communicated later.
Dimension 3: Economic feasibility
Third question: Can the trend be produced into a marketable price structure?
Raw material costs: What do the postulated active ingredients cost in the necessary concentrations?
Production effort: What additional costs are incurred through special processes or components?
Price positioning: What price range does the target market allow? Premium, mid, mass?
unit costs vs. margin: Is the calculated margin sufficient for all parties involved (manufacturer, brand, retail)?
Dimension 4: Market feasibility
Fourth question: Do consumers actually accept the trend, or is it marketing buzz?
Consumer research: Is there evidence of real demand beyond social media hype?
Retail feedback: How do buyers react to the concept? Gaps in the assortment or already saturated?
Competitive analysis: How established is the trend among competitors? First mover or latecomer?
Lifecycle forecast: Is the trend expected to last for 6 months (hype) or 3+ years (structural change)?
How the evaluation works in practice
At Labtree, the trend feasibility assessment typically takes place during the concept and early sampling phase:
Concept Workshop: Brand presentation, active efficacy claim, target market, structurally documented
R&D Assessment: Quick check of the four dimensions, often within 1-2 weeks
Initial Samples: Standard samples or a short laboratory iteration to physically prove feasibility
Go / No-Go: Decision on full development, with clear justification of which adjustments are necessary in which dimensions
In-depth Sources: The legal basis for all cosmetic products marketed in the EU is the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. The health assessment of ingredients in Germany lies with the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR). Industry information and market data are published by the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW).
Conclusion
Testing trends for feasibility is not a brake, but risk management. Those who evaluate technical, regulatory, economic, and market dimensions early invest targetedly in what is truly implementable and avoid expensive lessons.
Related Articles: Cosmetics Trends 2026 · Strategic Choice of Active Ingredients · Samples Prior to Budget Release
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FAQ
Does Labtree have its own laboratory?
Yes. Labtree has its own development expertise, including a laboratory. This means that formulations can not only be selected, but specifically developed, tested, and adjusted. Additionally, smaller test batches can be produced in-house in order to validate products early on in real conditions and safely transfer them to production.
How is a cosmetics trend systematically tested?
Across four dimensions: technical feasibility (stability, formulation), regulatory feasibility (ingredients, claims), economic feasibility (costs vs. price positioning), and market feasibility (consumer acceptance vs. hype).
How long does a feasibility assessment take?
A rapid assessment across the four dimensions is typically possible in 1 to 2 weeks. For complex active ingredient combinations, an initial laboratory iteration may require an additional 2–4 weeks.
Who does the evaluation?
R&D function (Head of R&D at Labtree: Edita Goetz-Bison) along with regulatory expertise and the conception phase of the development process. For integrated partners, the assessment is carried out without a separate external commission.
What happens if the trend is not feasible?
Three options: (1) Adaptation of the concept to feasible reality, (2) Alternative active ingredient strategies with a similar marketing hook, (3) Skipping the trend, focusing on other differentiations. The brand makes the decision based on the evaluation.
What role does consumer research play?
A growing one. Classical market research is complemented by social listening, small consumer tests, and retail feedback. Trends without empirical proof of acceptance should be scrutinized more critically than those with a clear consumer signal.
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