Having Vitamin C Serum manufactured: How brands bring active ingredient, stability and efficacy together
Having Vitamin C Serum manufactured: How brands bring active ingredient, stability and efficacy together
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CEO & Founder at Labtree GmbH
Vitamin C is one of the most effective and at the same time most unstable active ingredients in skincare. A good Vitamin C serum is not created by the highest possible concentration, but by the right combination of active ingredient form, carrier system, packaging, and stability.
The topic is short and compact
The form of vitamin C determines efficacy, stability, and potential brand promise—the most important first decision.
Stability is not a single lever, but a combination of the carrier system, pH, antioxidants, and packaging.
With the formulation base and early parallel consideration of packaging and approval: 2–4 months to market launch.
The choice of Vitamin C form is the first strategic decision. It determines efficacy, stability, pH requirements, and ultimately the potential marketing claim.
L-Ascorbic Acid: the most active, best-researched form. Works directly, but requires a low pH (under 3.5) and is unstable. Typical concentrations: 5–20%. Brand promise: maximum efficacy, clinically provable.
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (EAA): fat-soluble, more stable, good skin penetration. Concentrations 1–5%. Brand promise: high bioavailability, mild sensory profile.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD Ascorbate): highly stable, fat-soluble, slow release. Concentrations 0.5–10%. Brand promise: premium, anti-aging.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP): water-soluble, more stable at higher pH. Concentrations 1–5%. Brand promise: suitable for acne-prone skin types.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP): stable, gentle, skin-friendly. Concentrations 1–3%. Brand promise: sensitive skin.
Which form of vitamin C for which brand promise
The choice of Vitamin C form is the first strategic decision. It determines efficacy, stability, pH requirements, and ultimately the potential marketing claim.
L-Ascorbic Acid: the most active, best-researched form. Works directly, but requires a low pH (under 3.5) and is unstable. Typical concentrations: 5–20%. Brand promise: maximum efficacy, clinically provable.
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (EAA): fat-soluble, more stable, good skin penetration. Concentrations 1–5%. Brand promise: high bioavailability, mild sensory profile.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD Ascorbate): highly stable, fat-soluble, slow release. Concentrations 0.5–10%. Brand promise: premium, anti-aging.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP): water-soluble, more stable at higher pH. Concentrations 1–5%. Brand promise: suitable for acne-prone skin types.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP): stable, gentle, skin-friendly. Concentrations 1–3%. Brand promise: sensitive skin.
Stability is the actual development problem
A vitamin C serum that looks stable in the laboratory can turn brown, sour-smelling, and ineffective after three months on the shelf. Stability arises from the combination of the carrier system, pH control, antioxidants, chelating agents, and packaging, not from a single lever.
Structured approach:
Stressed stability: 4 weeks at 40°C, assessment of color change, content, and pH
Real-time stability: 12–24 months at room temperature and 5°C
Light Stress Test: UV exposure to validate packaging decisions
Open Use: Repeated opening over weeks, simulating real use
Packaging as active ingredient protection
With a vitamin C serum, the packaging is not an optional brand detail, but part of the formulation. Three options, with differing costs and pros/cons:
Airless pump: Prevents air contact, ideal for L-ascorbic acid. Higher unit costs.
Dark glass dropper bottle: Protects against light, but every opening introduces air. Suitable for more stable derivatives.
Pump dispenser with one-way valve: Medium compromise between protection and costs.
The choice also influences the minimum order quantity; airless packaging often has higher MOQs at the supplier.
Time and cost variables
White Label based on pre-qualified formulation: 2 to 3 months, unit costs from approx. 4–6 EUR (depending on concentration, packaging, batch size)
Individual new development: 3 to 6 months, higher initial costs for stability testing and, if applicable, clinical trials for efficacy claims
Typical MOQ: 1,000–3,000 units with standard packaging, higher for airless
At Labtree, pre-qualified Vitamin C formulations (all main forms) serve as a starting point. Brands see early on which base fits the planned concentration and sensory profile.
What to look for when choosing a development partner
Own Vitamin C formulations: Do stability-tested vitamin C bases already exist in the pool, or does every development start from scratch?
In-house laboratory: Can stability adjustments be made in-house, or do they have to be commissioned externally?
sampling speed: Standard samples of pre-qualified formulations within 24 hours is a realistic benchmark, and with Labtree, shipping is also free of charge
Early parallel consideration: Packaging selection, stability protocol, and regulatory preparation should run parallel to formulation adjustment instead of being addressed only after final approval
Scalability: From test batch to large-scale series without interface breakage
In-depth sources: The legal basis for all cosmetic products marketed in the EU is the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. In Germany, the health assessment of ingredients is the responsibility of the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR). Industry information and market data are published by the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW).
Practice Path: Vitamin C Serum in 3 Months
Conceptualization (Week 1): Selection of the vitamin C form based on brand promise, target group and price point. Allocation to a matching formulation base from the Labtree pool.
sampling (Weeks 1–2): Standard samples of pre-qualified formulation within 24 hours for the first sensory evaluation.
Customization (Weeks 3–6): Targeted adjustment, active ingredient concentration, target scent, sensory fine-tuning. Parallel: packaging selection, preparation of the safety assessment.
Prototyping (Weeks 7–10): Test batch, stressed stability, initial real-time data points, final regulatory preparation after formulation approval.
Production (Weeks 11–12): Scaling to initial batch, transition to routine production.
Related articles: Strategic choice of active ingredient · Having Hyaluronic Acid Serum produced · Samples before budget approval
Having Vitamin C serum produced is not a standard project, but can be planned with the right structural setup. The central levers: suitable vitamin C form, stable carrier system, appropriate packaging and complete stability validation. Those who build on a pre-qualified formulation base and consider packaging, approval and production early on in parallel can bring their product to market in 2 to 4 months.
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FAQ
Does Labtree have its own laboratory?
Yes. Labtree has its own development expertise, including a laboratory. This means that formulations can not only be selected, but specifically developed, tested, and adjusted. Additionally, smaller test batches can be produced in-house in order to validate products early on in real conditions and safely transfer them to production.
Which vitamin C concentration is useful?
For L-ascorbic acid serums, the effective range is 5-20%. Higher is not automatically better; above 20%, irritation increases without a linear increase in efficacy. For derivatives (THD ascorbate, EAA), effective concentrations are lower (0.5-10%).
How long does the development of a vitamin C serum take?
For White Label based on a pre-qualified formulation: 2 to 3 months. Individual new development: 3 to 6 months. Decisive factors are stability tests and, if applicable, proofs of efficacy for specific marketing claims.
What minimum quantity is realistic?
For standard packaging 1,000–3,000 pieces, for airless pumps 2,500–5,000 pieces (packaging MOQ applies). Test batches from approx. 1,000–2,000 pieces are possible for market validation.
Which packaging protects vitamin C the best?
Airless pumps are most effective at preventing air contact and are the first choice for L-ascorbic acid. Dark glass with a dropper protects against light but allows air to enter with each use, making it more suitable for stable derivatives. The choice of packaging is part of the formulation decision, not an afterthought.
How much does it cost to produce a Vitamin C serum?
Project-dependent. Unit costs for white label with standard packaging are typically 4–6 EUR for a medium batch size. Initial costs include stability tests, skin compatibility tests, and regulatory documentation. For private label with an individual active ingredient combination, the initial costs are higher.
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