Manufacturing Sunscreen with SPF: How Brands Strategically Align UV Filters, Carrier Systems, and Regulatory Requirements
Manufacturing Sunscreen with SPF: How Brands Strategically Align UV Filters, Carrier Systems, and Regulatory Requirements
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CEO & Founder at Labtree GmbH
Sunscreen is regulatorily and formulationally one of the most challenging cosmetic products. The choice of UV filters, SPF claims, photostability, and the carrier system collectively determine whether the product succeeds in the market and is legally compliant.
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The filter strategy (chemical, mineral, hybrid) is the central decision and shapes the sensory profile, protection, and market access.
In vivo SPF and in vitro UVA testing are mandatory and significantly determine the project duration and initial costs.
With formulation basis and early parallel consideration of testing and approvals: 3 to 6 months to market launch.
UV filters are strictly regulated in the EU. Only the filters listed in Annex VI of the EU Cosmetics Regulation may be used up to the approved maximum concentration. The key decision is chemical, mineral, or combined.
Chemical filters (e.g. Avobenzone, Octocrylene, Tinosorb S/M, Uvinul A Plus, Uvinul T 150): absorb UV radiation, good sensory profile, low white cast. State-of-the-art filters like Tinosorb S/M offer a broad UVA/UVB spectrum and high photostability.
Mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide): reflect and absorb UV radiation. High skin compatibility, suitable for children's and sensitive products. Tendency towards a visible white cast, which can be reduced through micronization.
Hybrid filter systems: a combination of chemical and mineral filters, which often yields the best balance of sensory profile, protection, and skin compatibility.
Important: Some filters are approved in the EU, but not outside of it (e.g., USA), and vice versa. For international brands, the filter strategy is a fundamental market decision.
UV filters: chemical or mineral
UV filters are strictly regulated in the EU. Only the filters listed in Annex VI of the EU Cosmetics Regulation may be used up to the approved maximum concentration. The key decision is chemical, mineral, or combined.
Chemical filters (e.g. Avobenzone, Octocrylene, Tinosorb S/M, Uvinul A Plus, Uvinul T 150): absorb UV radiation, good sensory profile, low white cast. State-of-the-art filters like Tinosorb S/M offer a broad UVA/UVB spectrum and high photostability.
Mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide): reflect and absorb UV radiation. High skin compatibility, suitable for children's and sensitive products. Tendency towards a visible white cast, which can be reduced through micronization.
Hybrid filter systems: a combination of chemical and mineral filters, which often yields the best balance of sensory profile, protection, and skin compatibility.
Important: Some filters are approved in the EU, but not outside of it (e.g., USA), and vice versa. For international brands, the filter strategy is a fundamental market decision.
SPF levels and photostability
The SPF value measures protection against UVB radiation. The EU recommends parallel UVA labeling (UVA logo, SPF/UVA-PF ratio of at least 1:3).
SPF 15: low protection, suitable for everyday use, for light day care with a UV component.
SPF 30: medium protection, broad application, most common claim.
SPF 50 and SPF 50+: high to very high protection, for sun exposure and sensitive skin. Requires a higher filter content and a careful carrier system.
Photostability: some filters (especially Avobenzone) degrade under UV radiation if they are not stabilized. Stabilizers like Octocrylene or Tinosorb filters are standard components.
SPF Test (ISO 24444 in vivo): mandatory for the claimed SPF number. Significant cost and duration. UVA protection is verified via ISO 24443 in vitro.
Carrier system and avoidance of whitening effect
The carrier system shapes the product experience. A high proportion of filters puts a strain on the sensory profile, the formulation must compensate for this effect.
O/W emulsion (light): Standard for daily and facial SPF. Fast absorption, matte finish.
Fluid and serum textures: very light, modern, suitable for daily use under make-up.
Gel-cream: fresh skin feel, suitable for combination skin and summer.
W/O emulsion (waterproof): higher water resistance, richer character. For beach and sports products.
Avoid white cast: micronized mineral filters, tinted carrier systems (light tint) and smartly formulated chemical filters reduce or prevent white cast.
Sensory profile is the most important repurchase driver in the SPF segment. Anyone who delivers a pleasant daily-use product here wins market share.
Water resistance, additional benefits, and certification
Beyond UV protection, sunscreens can be differentiated with additional properties.
Water-resistant and very water-resistant: Claims according to EU Commission Recommendation 2006/647/EC, tested according to standardized methods (Cosmetics Europe).
Reef-friendly: Dispensing with oxybenzone and octinoxate. Strong communication potential, no regulatory EU obligation.
Nourishing active ingredients: Antioxidants (Vitamin E, Vitamin C derivatives, niacinamides) complement the UV protection with skin-soothing properties.
Tinted SPF: Light pigmentation conceals the white cast effect and positions the product as a hybrid between sunscreen and foundation.
COSMOS certification: Possible with selected approved mineral filters and corresponding carrier substances. Increases regulatory and raw material efforts.
Time and cost variables
White label based on pre-qualified formulation: 3 to 4 months, unit costs from approx. 3 to 8 EUR (depending on filter system, SPF level, packaging, batch size)
Individual new development: 4 to 8 months, higher initial costs for SPF in vivo test (ISO 24444), UVA test (ISO 24443), stability tests, and safety assessment
Typical MOQ: 2,500 to 5,000 units with standard packaging, higher for special forms such as spray or stick
At Labtree, pre-qualified sunscreen formulations in various filter systems, SPF levels, and carrier systems serve as a starting point. Brands see early on which base fits the planned positioning.
In-depth sources: The legal basis for all cosmetic products marketed in the EU is the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. In Germany, the health assessment of ingredients is the responsibility of the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR). Industry information and market data are published by the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW).
The 5-phase process for a sunscreen
Conceptualization: Selection of UV filters, SPF level, carrier system, and brand claims (waterproof, reef-friendly, tinted, COSMOS) based on brand promise, target group, and price point. Assignment to a suitable formulation base from the Labtree pool.
sampling: Standard samples of pre-qualified formulations are shipped from the sample warehouse within 24 hours, free of charge for customers. Initial evaluation of sensory profile, whitening effect, and skin feel.
Individualization: Targeted adjustment of filter combination, carrier system, active ingredients for skin care, and fragrance. Iterative sample variants until the sensory profile and protection profile match the positioning.
Prototyping: Test batch in production-scale size. In parallel, packaging, design, SPF and UVA tests, regulatory requirements, and manufacturability are considered early on, instead of only being addressed after final formulation release.
Production: Scaling to final batch size, transition to routine production. Because manufacturability was already considered during the prototyping phase, the final step is carried out in a coordinated manner.
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In-house sunscreen formulations in the pool: Do stability-tested bases already exist in different filter systems, SPF levels, and carrier systems, or does every development start from scratch?
Regulatory depth: SPF in vivo tests (ISO 24444), UVA tests (ISO 24443), water resistance tests, and safety assessment. Established partner laboratories accelerate the testing phase.
In-house laboratory: Can filter and carrier system adjustments be made in-house, or must they be commissioned externally?
Sampling speed: Standard samples within 24 hours is a realistic benchmark. At Labtree, shipping is also free of charge.
Early parallel consideration: Packaging selection, SPF test planning, and regulatory preparation should run parallel to the formulation adjustment, instead of only being addressed after final approval.
Scalability: From the test batch to large-scale production without interface disruption.
Having sunscreen with SPF manufactured is a demanding but plannable project if strategic decisions (filter system, SPF level, carrier system, regulatory claims) are made early and are based on a pre-qualified formulation. Anyone who considers SPF tests, packaging, and regulatory preparation in parallel with the formulation can achieve market launch within 3 to 6 months.
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FAQ
Does Labtree have its own laboratory?
Yes. Labtree has its own development expertise, including a laboratory. This means that formulations can not only be selected, but specifically developed, tested, and adjusted. Additionally, smaller test batches can be produced in-house in order to validate products early on in real conditions and safely transfer them to production.
Chemical or mineral filters?
Chemical filters (e.g., Tinosorb S/M, Uvinul A Plus, Octocrylene) offer a good sensory profile and broad protection. Mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) are highly skin-compatible but tend to leave a white cast. Hybrid systems combine both worlds and often provide the best balance.
Which SPF level is recommended?
SPF 30 is the most common claim and is suitable for everyday use. SPF 50 and 50+ are for sun exposure and sensitive skin. SPF 15 is for light day care with a UV component. The claimed SPF must be proven via an in vivo test according to ISO 24444.
How do you prevent the white cast effect?
Through micronized mineral filters, lightly tinted carrier systems (Tinted SPF), and modern chemical filters such as Tinosorb S/M. Hybrid filter systems combine these effects and significantly reduce white cast.
How long does it take to develop a sunscreen?
For White Label based on pre-qualified formulation: 3 to 4 months. Individual new development: 4 to 8 months. The SPF tests (in vivo) and UVA tests (in vitro) significantly determine the runtime.
What minimum quantity is realistic?
2,500 to 5,000 units for standard packaging. Special formulas such as spray or stick formats have higher MOQ thresholds. SPF testing involves initial costs that are independent of the quantity.
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