The topic is short and compact
Perimenopausal skin combines a relative excess of androgens with declining estrogen, which is why blemishes and dryness often occur at the same time.
The central formulation problem is the lipid phase: enough care for dry skin without promoting comedones.
Since Regulation (EU) 2024/996, retinol has been limited to 0.3 percent retinol equivalent, and to 0.05 percent in body lotions, along with a mandatory warning.
A shared base for peri- and postmenopause saves development effort, but each variant requires its own testing and its own CPNP notification.
The life stage may be specified as the target audience, but claims regarding hormonal or therapeutic effects are not permitted.
So läuft die Entwicklung bei Labtree
1
Konzeptionierung
2
Bemusterung – Standardmuster in 24 h
3
Individualisierung
4
Prototyping
5
Produktion
White Label 2–3 Monate · Private Label 3–6 Monate · Produktion ab 1.000 Stück
What distinguishes perimenopausal skin from other target groups?
The difference lies in the hormonal profile. In the years around menopause, estrogen levels drop significantly, causing androgens to gain relative prominence. The review by Khunger and Mehrotra on menopausal acne describes this as a state of relative androgen excess that affects sebaceous glands and inflammatory tendencies. It categorizes acne in women aged approximately 45 and older into three courses: persistent since youth, newly occurring, or recurrent. At the same time, the authors describe an increased sensitivity of this skin.
The second part of the findings concerns skin structure. According to the review by Thornton on estrogens and skin aging, types I and III collagen presumably decrease by up to 30 percent in the first five years after menopause; for women with estrogen deficiency, the study cites a decline of approximately 2 percent per year post-menopause. The skin becomes thinner, less elastic, and drier. This process begins in perimenopause, but is not yet complete. That is why blemishes and the first structural signs of aging coincide in the same skin.
The review by Dias da Rocha and colleagues (2024) provides an indication of the size of the target group: In a French survey of 3,394 women, 41 percent reported having acne in adulthood; for postmenopausal women aged 50 and older, the study cites a prevalence of 15.3 percent. The study was funded by a dermocosmetics manufacturer, but the figures originate from cited surveys.
Why don't classic acne treatments and anti-aging creams work well here?
Both categories are built for skin that has only one of the two problems. Acne care for young, sebum-rich skin often works with strong surfactant systems, alcohol-rich toners, and high-dose exfoliating acids. For older skin, Khunger and Mehrotra note that topical acne active ingredients can cause dryness and irritation because this skin is already dry and sensitive. Anti-aging creams, on the other hand, frequently rely on a rich, occlusive oil phase, which increases the risk of comedones in acne-prone skin. Both review articles explicitly recommend non-comedogenic moisturizers for this target group.
Formulation decision | Acne care for young skin | Anti-aging cream | Perimenopause formulation |
|---|---|---|---|
Cleansing | strong surfactants, degreasing | usually not part of the line | mild surfactants, lipid-replenishing, without scrub particles |
Lipid phase | low, mattifying | rich, occlusive | light emollients, tested for comedogenicity |
active ingredients | high-dose acids | retinoids, peptides | low-dose, well-tolerated combinations |
Sensory goal | matte skin feel | nourishing film | fast-absorbing, non-greasy |
The actual formulation problem lies in the lipid phase. Dryness calls for lipids that support the barrier, while blemishes demand a choice of oils that does not clog pores. In laboratory work, this means: selecting emollients based on spreading behavior and comedogenicity risk, keeping the oil content rather low, and achieving the nourishing effect via humectants and barrier-active substances rather than through pure occlusion.
Which active ingredients and formulation components are suitable?
For the barrier, Dias da Rocha and colleagues mention panthenol, ceramides, glycerin, and niacinamide as components of dermocosmetics for adult women with acne. These substances can be easily incorporated into oil-in-water emulsions and gel creams and are generally considered well tolerated. Niacinamide is the building block that can be argued in both directions: barrier and skin appearance. However, the concentration used must match the subsequent claim and be substantiated on the finished product, not merely via data from the raw material supplier.
Retinol under new limits
Retinol is an obvious choice for the aging aspect, but since Regulation (EU) 2024/996, it has been subject to a restriction in Annex III of the Cosmetics Regulation: a maximum of 0.05 percent retinol equivalent in body lotions and 0.3 percent in other products, along with the mandatory notice "Contains vitamin A. Consider your daily intake before use". Non-compliant products may no longer be placed on the market since November 1, 2025, and from May 1, 2027, they may also no longer be made available. For existing product lines, this means: check the formulation and label now. The article on retinol serum describes how retinol can be formulated stably and tolerably.
For a sensitive target group, the dosage of retinol within the limit is also a matter of skin compatibility. Khunger and Mehrotra recommend gradually acclimating the skin when using retinoids. For the line, this may mean carrying retinol in a separate evening product with a lower concentration instead of including it in every formulation.
What does not belong in a cosmetic formulation
Hormonally active substances and active ingredients classified as medicinal products in the EU have no place in a cosmetic line. Plant extracts advertised with phytoestrogens are also risky: the formulation may be cosmetic, but the claim regarding a hormonal effect is not.
What testing does a perimenopause product line require?
The tests follow the usual framework, but have specific priorities for this target group. Accelerated stability testing at elevated temperatures shows whether the emulsion with a low oil content and high humectant content maintains viscosity and phase stability. For retinol, the active ingredient content over the storage period must be included in the test plan, as retinol is sensitive to light and oxygen. This directly affects the packaging material: airless dispensers or opaque tubes are more often the rule here rather than a jar.
The preservation challenge test according to ISO 11930 is crucial for water-rich gel creams and oil-in-water emulsions, because the free water phase provides space for microorganisms. If the line is formulated with gentle preservative systems to improve skin compatibility, the test must demonstrate that efficacy is nevertheless sufficient.
Application tests are added for claims. Statements such as "for sensitive skin", "non-comedogenic", or "moisturizing" each require their own substantiation on the finished product, ideally with female volunteers from the target group. The safety assessment according to Article 10 and Annex I of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 takes into account the conditions of use and target group of the product. The specific scope of testing is described in the article on stability and safety testing.
Which advertising claims are permitted for a perimenopause product line?
What serves a cosmetic purpose and is substantiated is permissible. According to Article 2(1)(a) of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, a cosmetic product is intended exclusively or mainly to clean, protect, keep in good condition, or change the appearance of the skin. Naming a life stage as a target group, such as "for menopausal skin", is compatible with this. In contrast, statements such as "treats hormonal acne", "balances the hormone balance", or "acts like estrogen" describe a pharmacological or therapeutic effect and bring the product close to being a medicinal product.
Whether a product is cosmetic or a medicinal product is decided on a case-by-case basis according to information from the European Commission on borderline products; the Commission provides a manual on the scope of application of the Cosmetics Regulation for this purpose. For the brand, this means: wording on the packaging, in the online shop, and in advertisements are assessed together, because the presentation of the product is generally also factored into the case-by-case assessment.
The six common criteria of Regulation (EU) No 655/2013 apply to every cosmetic claim: legal compliance, truthfulness, evidential support, honesty, fairness, and informed decision-making. In practical terms, this means: "reduces blemishes" requires a user study, "softens the appearance of fine lines" requires a measurement on the finished product. The article on cosmetic advertising claims in the EU classifies the criteria in detail.
Perimenopause or postmenopause: one line or two?
After menopause, the picture shifts. Dryness, diminishing firmness, and a more sensitive barrier remain, while blemishes take a back seat for many women. They do not disappear completely: Khunger and Mehrotra describe persistent and recurring courses even after menopause, and Dias da Rocha and colleagues cite primarily deeper-lying, inflammatory papules around the mouth for postmenopausal acne.
Two approaches emerge for product range planning:
One line for both phases: a shared barrier-oriented base, supplemented by a clarifying product for blemishes and a richer product for dry skin. Fewer SKUs, but a broader positioning.
Two separate lines: a lighter, clarifying line for perimenopause and a more lipid-rich line for postmenopause. More targeted messaging, but double the minimum order quantities, packaging materials, and documentation.
A shared emulsion base with two active ingredient variants reduces development effort, but does not replace testing: each variant is an independent product with its own stability testing, safety report, and CPNP notification.
Labtree is a B2B cosmetics developer and cosmetics manufacturer with its own laboratory and production capacities in Germany. A perimenopause line is created there through the stages of conceptualization, sampling, individualization, prototyping, and production. Samples of pre-qualified formulations typically leave the sample warehouse within 24 hours, allowing texture and skin feel to be evaluated early on using real samples rather than spec sheets.
Two service models are available. In White Label, a tested Labtree formulation is specifically tailored; with standard packaging, it is usually ready for delivery within 2 to 3 months, and the formulation remains with Labtree. In Private Label, the formulation is newly developed according to the brand's requirements, typically taking 3 to 6 months to reach market readiness; formulation rights or exclusivity are governed by contract. The minimum order quantity is generally 1,500 units per product, depending on the product type, fill size, and packaging. Manufacturability is verified right during formulation development, rather than during the scale-up to production.
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FAQ
At what age does perimenopause begin?
Menopause usually occurs between the ages of 45 and 55, while perimenopause begins a few years earlier. Age is therefore only a rough guide when defining the target audience for a skincare line; it makes more sense to focus on the actual skin conditions, such as blemishes alongside increasing dryness.
Can a cosmetics brand advertise with "menopause"?
Yes, the life stage may be identified as a target group, as long as the product does not claim to have a hormonal or therapeutic effect. Statements such as "balances hormones" or "treats acne" go beyond cosmetic purposes. The magazine article "Cosmetic Advertising Claims in the EU" describes the criteria in detail.
Is retinol still allowed in a perimenopause line?
Yes, but with limits: Regulation (EU) 2024/996 restricts retinol to 0.3 percent retinol equivalent (0.05 percent in body lotions) and mandates a warning label. As of November 1, 2025, only compliant products may be newly placed on the market, and from May 1, 2027, this applies to all products on sale.
How is "non-comedogenic" proven?
The claim requires proof on the finished product, usually an application test under dermatological supervision over several weeks. Raw material data for individual oils is not sufficient, because comedogenicity depends on the overall formulation and concentration.
Do phytoestrogens in cosmetics make sense?
Plant extracts can be part of a cosmetic formulation, but a statement regarding an estrogen-like effect is not a cosmetic purpose. Anyone using them should limit claims to proven cosmetic effects such as moisture or skin feel.
How long does it take to develop a perimenopause product line?
The decisive factor is whether a tested formulation is adapted (white label) or a new formulation is developed (private label); a new development takes significantly longer. The biggest impacts on the timeline are stability testing, application tests for claim substantiation, and packaging availability. If the line contains retinol, testing the active ingredient content over the storage period is also required.
