Having Mascara Produced: How Brands Strategically Align Brush Design, Effectiveness, and Preservation
Having Mascara Produced: How Brands Strategically Align Brush Design, Effectiveness, and Preservation
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CEO & Founder at Labtree GmbH
Mascara is one of the most microbiologically demanding makeup categories. Brush design, formulation type, and preservation determine efficacy and safety, as the product is in direct daily contact with the eyes.
The topic is short and compact
The brush and the formula work together as a system. The desired effect (volume, length, curl) determines both.
Preservation is microbiologically critical due to eye contact. A challenge test according to ISO 11930 is mandatory.
With formulation basis and early parallel consideration: 4 to 6 months to market launch.
The first strategic decision is the type of effect. Volume, length, and curling require different formulations and different brushes.
Volume mascara: thicker, waxier formulation. Brushes with dense bristles for loading up config. Brand promise: dense, voluminous lashes.
Length mascara: lighter formulation with film-formers and small polymer fibers. Brush with longer, separating bristles. Brand promise: noticeably longer lashes.
Curling mascara: formulation with lifting polymers that shrink as they dry, thereby lifting the lash. Curved brush enhances the effect. Brand promise: visible curl without an eyelash curler.
Definition mascara: balanced formulation, separates without sticking. Slender brush. Brand promise: natural look.
Multifunction mascara: combination of multiple effects (volume plus length). Harder to formulate, but broad market appeal.
Effect type determines formulation and brush
The first strategic decision is the type of effect. Volume, length, and curling require different formulations and different brushes.
Volume mascara: thicker, waxier formulation. Brushes with dense bristles for loading up config. Brand promise: dense, voluminous lashes.
Length mascara: lighter formulation with film-formers and small polymer fibers. Brush with longer, separating bristles. Brand promise: noticeably longer lashes.
Curling mascara: formulation with lifting polymers that shrink as they dry, thereby lifting the lash. Curved brush enhances the effect. Brand promise: visible curl without an eyelash curler.
Definition mascara: balanced formulation, separates without sticking. Slender brush. Brand promise: natural look.
Multifunction mascara: combination of multiple effects (volume plus length). Harder to formulate, but broad market appeal.
Waterproof vs. conventional
The second key decision is water resistance. Both options have specific requirements:
Conventional Mascara: water-soluble, easy to remove with makeup remover. Carrier system: water plus waxes and film formers. Skin-type-friendly for sensitive eyes.
Waterproof Mascara: holds up against sweat, tears, and rain. Carrier system: often solvent-based with silicones or cyclomethicone. Special eye makeup remover required.
Tubing Mascara: forms polymer tubes around the lashes. Can be removed with warm water and gentle pressure. Very popular for sports activities and sensitive eyes.
Many brands offer both variants because different occasions require different properties.
Pigment system and shades
Mascara pigments are strictly regulated by the Cosmetics Regulation because the product is applied close to the eyes:
Carbon Black: Standard for black, intense shade, good coverage.
Iron Oxides: Black, brown, red. Milder alternative to Carbon Black, often used as a brown-black blend.
Ultramarine (Blue, Violet): for colored mascaras. Strictly regulated for use near the eyes.
Shades in a mascara line: typically black (90 percent of the market), brown or brown-black for natural looks, optional blue or violet as a statement option. An initial line with 1 to 2 shades is standard.
Preservation: critical for eye safety
Mascara is microbiologically highly risky. With every application, the brush transfers microorganisms from the eye into the tube. Therefore, stricter preservation requirements apply than for other make-up products:
Preservation system: typically a mixture of several preservatives (e.g. phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, optionally sorbic acid). Parabens are used less frequently due to marketing consensus.
Challenge test: mandatory according to ISO 11930. The mascara is inoculated with defined microorganisms, and the preservation system must reduce them within the specified time.
Period-after-opening stability: Mascara should not be used for longer than 3 to 6 months after opening. A note on the packaging is recommended (Period-after-Opening symbol).
In the case of anhydrous or solvent-based mascaras, preservation is less critical because most microorganisms require water.
Time and cost variables
White Label based on pre-qualified formulation: 4 to 5 months, unit costs from approx. 2 to 5 EUR (depending on brush complexity, packaging, batch size)
Individual new development: 5 to 7 months, higher initial costs for brush customization, challenge tests and skin compatibility studies
Typical MOQ: 5,000 to 15,000 pieces (mascara tube and brush often have high packaging MOQs)
At Labtree, pre-qualified mascara formulations with different action focuses serve as a starting point. Brush selection and brand-specific adjustments are made on this basis.
In-depth sources: The legal basis for all cosmetic products marketed in the EU is the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. In Germany, the health assessment of ingredients is the responsibility of the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR). Industry information and market data are published by the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW).
The 5-phase process for a mascara
Conceptualization: Selection of effect type, water resistance, brush design, and color shade based on brand promise, target group, and price point. Allocation to a suitable formulation base from the Labtree pool.
sampling: Standard samples of pre-qualified formulations are shipped from the sample warehouse within 24 hours, free of charge for customers. First effect evaluation on the eyelashes.
Individualization: Targeted adjustment of wax content, film formers, pigment concentration, and drying time. Iterative sample variants until the effect and drying behavior are balanced.
Prototyping: Test batch in production-like size. In parallel, brush selection, bottle, design, regulatory requirements (especially challenge test), and production viability are considered early on, rather than addressed only after the final formulation release.
Production: Scaling to final batch size, transition to routine production. Because production viability was already factored in during the prototyping phase, the final step is carried out in a coordinated manner.
Related articles: Have eyeliner produced · Have foundation produced · Have blush stick produced
In-house mascara formulations in the pool: Do stability-tested bases already exist for different performance types and water resistance, or does every development start from scratch?
Brush sourcing: Access to different brush designs (silicone, fiber, hybrid) and possibility of customization.
Challenge test expertise: Experience with ISO 11930 testing and preservation system optimization.
In-house laboratory: Can active ingredient and pigment adjustments be made in-house, or do they have to be outsourced?
Sampling speed: Standard samples within 24 hours is a realistic benchmark. With Labtree, shipping is also free of charge.
Early parallel consideration: Packaging selection, stability protocol, and regulatory preparation should run in parallel with the formulation adjustment, rather than being addressed only after final approval.
Having mascara produced is more demanding than most make-up categories because the brush, formulation, and preservation must be precisely coordinated with one another. Those who make strategic decisions early (effect type, water resistance, brush design) and build on a pre-qualified formulation base can achieve a market launch in 4 to 6 months.
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FAQ
Does Labtree have its own laboratory?
Yes. Labtree has its own development expertise, including a laboratory. This means that formulations can not only be selected, but specifically developed, tested, and adjusted. Additionally, smaller test batches can be produced in-house in order to validate products early on in real conditions and safely transfer them to production.
Which mascara type is the right one?
That depends on the brand promise and the target audience. Volume mascara for thick lashes, length mascara for visibly longer lashes, curling mascara for a lifted look. Multi-function mascaras combine several effects and have broader market appeal.
Waterproof or conventional?
Conventional mascara is easier to remove and skin-type-friendly for sensitive eyes. Waterproof mascara holds up against sweat, tears, and rain, but requires a special makeup remover. Tubing mascara is a modern compromise: it holds like waterproof, but can be removed with warm water.
How long does it take to develop a mascara?
For White Label based on a pre-qualified formulation: 4 to 5 months. Individual new development: 5 to 7 months. Crucial factors are brush selection or customization, challenge tests according to ISO 11930, and compatibility studies (eye skin compatibility).
What minimum quantity is realistic?
Typically 5,000 to 15,000 units, because mascara tubes and brushes have high packaging MOQs. For customized brushes, the MOQs are even higher. Test launches with a reduced number of SKUs (1 to 2 effect types) are one way to reduce the investment.
How much does a mascara cost to produce?
Project-dependent. Unit costs for White Label with standard brushes are typically 2 to 5 EUR for a medium batch size. Customized brushes and premium packaging increase the unit costs. Initial costs include challenge tests, skin compatibility studies, and regulatory documentation.
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