Having facial cleansers manufactured: How brands strategically combine surfactant systems, pH, and format
Having facial cleansers manufactured: How brands strategically combine surfactant systems, pH, and format
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CEO & Founder at Labtree GmbH
The facial cleanser is usually the first step in any skincare routine and a key brand element. The surfactant system, pH value, and format determine whether the product respects the skin barrier or dries it out.
The topic is short and compact
The surfactant system is the key lever between cleaning and skin barrier protection.
A skin-neutral pH (5.5) is a strong brand argument in the premium and sensitive segments.
With formulation basis and early parallel consideration of packaging and approval: 2 to 4 months to market launch.
surfactants are the cleansing components. They dissolve water- and fat-soluble dirt and determine the skin feel and skin compatibility.
Sulfate-free surfactants (Coco-Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside): very mild, dermatologically tolerated, lower foam strength. Standard for sensitive skin types.
Amino acid surfactants (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate): very mild, caring, premium positioning. Higher raw material costs.
Mild-anionic surfactants (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate): good foam strength with moderate mildness, popular in modern daily cleansers.
Sulfate surfactants (SLES, SLS): strong cleansing effect and foam, cost-effective, but tend to stress the skin. Losing relevance in the premium segment.
Combinations: 2 to 4 surfactants often complement each other sensibly to balance cleansing, foam, and mildness.
Surfactant systems: mild or effective
surfactants are the cleansing components. They dissolve water- and fat-soluble dirt and determine the skin feel and skin compatibility.
Sulfate-free surfactants (Coco-Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside): very mild, dermatologically tolerated, lower foam strength. Standard for sensitive skin types.
Amino acid surfactants (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate): very mild, caring, premium positioning. Higher raw material costs.
Mild-anionic surfactants (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate): good foam strength with moderate mildness, popular in modern daily cleansers.
Sulfate surfactants (SLES, SLS): strong cleansing effect and foam, cost-effective, but tend to stress the skin. Losing relevance in the premium segment.
Combinations: 2 to 4 surfactants often complement each other sensibly to balance cleansing, foam, and mildness.
pH value and skin barrier
The pH value of the cleanser directly influences the skin barrier. The skin's natural pH value is between 4.7 and 5.75.
pH 5.0 to 5.5: skin-neutral, protects the acid mantle, ideal for daily use.
pH 6.0 to 7.0: slightly alkaline, classic for soap-like cleansers. Tends to be more drying.
pH 4.5 to 5.0: slightly acidic, for microbiome-focused brand positionings.
pH stability in the formulation: Buffer systems keep the pH constant during storage and application.
A skin-neutral pH is a key argument in the premium and sensitive skin segment and can be communicated on the packaging.
Foam, format and sensory profile
Foam is sensory profile, not cleansing efficacy. Many consumers associate more foam with better cleansing, which is objectively incorrect, but shapes acceptance.
Cleansing Gel: classic format, light foam, fast sensory profile. Broad target group.
Cleansing Foam: from a pump dispenser, voluminous foam on the skin, easy application. Premium sensory profile.
Cleansing Cream: creamy texture, gentle character, low foam. For dry and mature skin.
Micellar Water: surfactant micelles dissolve dirt without rinsing, application with a cotton pad. Medium cleansing efficacy, high daily-use acceptance.
Cleansing Mousse: foam-like from a tube, dense texture, cared-for skin feel.
Active ingredient additions with real added value
Active ingredients in cleansers have a short effect because the product is rinsed off. However, the following are useful:
Niacinamide: skin-soothing, effective even in short contact, suitable for sensitive skin.
Allantoin and bisabolol: soothing effect, mitigate surfactant irritation.
Centella Asiatica: K-Beauty classic, skin-soothing, easy to communicate.
Salicylic acid (BHA, low concentration): for blemished skin, sebum-clearing. Keep regulatory concentration limits in mind.
Glycolic acid (AHA, low concentration): mild peeling effect, suitable for daily use in low dosages.
Exaggerated lists of active ingredients dilute the brand promise. Three clearly communicated active ingredients are more powerful than an active ingredient cocktail of ten ingredients.
Time and cost variables
White Label on pre-qualified formulation basis: 2 to 3 months, unit costs from approx. 1.50 to 4 EUR (depending on surfactant system, active ingredient additions, packaging, batch size)
Individual new development: 3 to 6 months, higher initial costs for surfactant testing, pH optimization and, if applicable, skin compatibility studies
Typical MOQ: 1,000 to 5,000 pieces with standard packaging, higher for pump foam dispensers
At Labtree, pre-qualified facial cleanser formulations in various surfactant systems and formats serve as a starting point. Brands see early on which basis fits the planned positioning.
In-depth sources: The legal basis for all cosmetic products marketed in the EU is the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. The health assessment of ingredients in Germany is the responsibility of the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR). Industry information and market data are published by the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW).
The 5-phase process for a facial cleanser
Conceptualization: Selection of the surfactant system, pH range, format, and active ingredient additions based on brand promise, target group, and price point. Matching to a suitable formulation base from the Labtree pool.
sampling: Standard samples of pre-qualified formulations are shipped from the sample warehouse within 24 hours, free of charge for customers. Initial evaluation of foam profile, sensory profile, and skin feel.
Individualization: Targeted adjustment of surfactant mix, pH, fragrance, and active ingredient concentration. Iterative sample variants until sensory profile and cleaning performance match.
Prototyping: Test batch in production-like size. In parallel, packaging, design, regulatory requirements, and production capability are considered early, instead of being addressed only after final formulation approval.
Production: Scaling to final batch size, transition to routine production. Because production feasibility was already considered in the prototyping phase, the final step is coordinated.
Related articles: Have Cleansing Balm produced · Have Cleansing Oil produced · Have Face Cream produced
Own facial cleanser formulations in the pool: Do stability-tested bases already exist in different surfactant systems, pH ranges, and formats, or does every development start from scratch?
Own laboratory: Can surfactant and pH adjustments be made in-house, or do they need to be outsourced?
Speed of sampling: Standard samples within 24 hours is a realistic benchmark. With Labtree, shipping is also free of charge.
Experience with skin compatibility tests: Cleansers are tested for dermatological skin compatibility because they act on the skin. Established study partners shorten the runtime.
Early parallel consideration: Packaging selection, stability protocol, and regulatory preparation should run parallel to the formulation adjustment, instead of only being addressed after final approval.
Scalability: From the test batch to large-scale production without interface disruption.
Having facial cleansers manufactured is a highly plannable endeavor if the strategic decisions (surfactant system, pH, format) are made early on and build on a pre-qualified formulation base. Anyone who considers packaging and regulatory preparation in parallel with the formulation can achieve a market launch in 2 to 4 months.
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FAQ
Does Labtree have its own laboratory?
Yes. Labtree has its own development expertise, including a laboratory. This means that formulations can not only be selected, but specifically developed, tested, and adjusted. Additionally, smaller test batches can be produced in-house in order to validate products early on in real conditions and safely transfer them to production.
Which surfactant system is the right one?
Sulfate-free surfactants (glucosides) and amino acid surfactants for sensitive and premium positionings. Mildly anionic surfactants (sodium cocoyl isethionate) for good foaming effects with moderate mildness. Sulfate surfactants (SLES) are cost-effective and highly cleansing, but are losing importance in the premium segment.
Which pH value is optimal?
A pH of 5.0 to 5.5 corresponds to the skin's natural environment and protects its protective acid mantle. For microbiome-focused brands, the range is 4.5 to 5.0. Soap-like cleansers with a pH of 6 to 7 tend to be more drying.
Which format is the right one?
Cleansing gel is standard and enjoys high acceptance. Foam cleansers feel premium and lightweight. Cleansing creams for dry and mature skin. Micellar water for quick application without rinsing. The choice depends on the target group and the position in the routine.
How long does it take to develop a facial cleanser?
For White Label on a pre-qualified formulation basis: 2 to 3 months. Individual new development: 3 to 6 months. Decisive factors are surfactant optimization, pH stability, and if applicable, skin compatibility studies.
What minimum quantity is realistic?
1,000 to 5,000 pieces with standard packaging. Foaming pump dispensers have higher MOQ barriers because the specialized closures are supplied in larger minimum quantities.
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