Having face cream manufactured: How brands strategically combine texture, active ingredient system, and skin type
Having face cream manufactured: How brands strategically combine texture, active ingredient system, and skin type
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CEO & Founder at Labtree GmbH
The face cream is the heart of almost every skincare line and, at the same time, the product type with the most variables. The cream base, active ingredient system, and sensory profile determine whether a product on the shelf is immediately perceived as premium or seems interchangeable.
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Cream base determines sensory profile and degree of care, the most important first decision.
Sensory profile decides on premium perception. Invest in the sampling phase.
With formulation basis and early parallel consideration of packaging and approval: 2 to 4 months to market launch.
The choice of cream base is the first strategic decision. It determines the sensory profile, skin feel, level of care, and potential marketing message.
O/W emulsion (oil in water): light, fast-absorbing, matte finish. Standard for day and summer creams. Brand promise: light care, broad target group.
W/O emulsion (water in oil): rich, high lipid content, protective film. For dry and very dry skin. Brand promise: intensive care, winter, anti-aging.
Gel-cream: hybrid texture, lighter than O/W, fresh skin feel. Brand promise: combination skin, summer, skin-soothing.
Anhydrous balms: water-free, high active ingredient content possible, very rich. Brand promise: premium, special care.
Lamellar structures (liposomes, aquaporins): mimicking the skin's own structures, targeted active ingredient transport. Brand promise: high-end, biotechnological.
Which cream base carries which brand promise
The choice of cream base is the first strategic decision. It determines the sensory profile, skin feel, level of care, and potential marketing message.
O/W emulsion (oil in water): light, fast-absorbing, matte finish. Standard for day and summer creams. Brand promise: light care, broad target group.
W/O emulsion (water in oil): rich, high lipid content, protective film. For dry and very dry skin. Brand promise: intensive care, winter, anti-aging.
Gel-cream: hybrid texture, lighter than O/W, fresh skin feel. Brand promise: combination skin, summer, skin-soothing.
Anhydrous balms: water-free, high active ingredient content possible, very rich. Brand promise: premium, special care.
Lamellar structures (liposomes, aquaporins): mimicking the skin's own structures, targeted active ingredient transport. Brand promise: high-end, biotechnological.
Active ingredient system and skin type matching
Unlike serum products, a face cream often has to fulfill several functions at the same time: hydration, protection, targeted delivery of active ingredients. Three standard active ingredient systems:
Hydration focus: Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, urea, panthenol. For sensitive skin and daily use.
Anti-aging focus: Peptides, retinol derivatives, vitamin E, antioxidants. For mature skin.
Skin soothing: Centella, niacinamide, allantoin, bisabolol. For irritated or reddened skin.
The selection of active ingredients should match the skin type and positioning. Too many active ingredients in a formulation dilute the effect and the brand message.
sensory profile and the premium promise
The sensory profile of a cream decides during the first skin test whether the product is perceived as premium or generic. Three sensory levers:
Absorption speed: Premium creams absorb quickly without being greasy. Achieved through light esters and silicone alternatives.
Skin feel after absorption: soft, smoothing, without stickiness. Fine-tune active ingredient concentration and polyols.
Scent: subtle, aligned with brand positioning. Fragrance-free options for sensitive skin types.
Sensory profile is iteratively optimized during the sampling phase. It is worth investing time here because it determines repeat purchases.
Packaging and Application Ritual
The packaging of a face cream is both a brand message and protection for the active ingredients:
Glass jar: classic, premium appearance, suitable for stable formulations. More air contact during application.
Tube: hygienic, suitable for everyday use, good active ingredient stability. Medium costs.
Airless pump: optimal stability for oxidation-sensitive active ingredients (retinol, vitamin C). Premium positioning. Higher unit costs.
Dispenser with pump head: precise dosing, hygienic, suitable for richer creams.
Time and cost variables
White label based on pre-qualified formulation: 2 to 3 months, unit costs from approx. 2.50 to 6 EUR (depending on active ingredient system, packaging, batch size)
Individual new development: 3 to 6 months, higher initial costs for stability testing, sensory profile iterations and, if applicable, skin compatibility studies
Typical MOQ: 1,000 to 5,000 units with standard packaging, higher with airless pumps
At Labtree, pre-qualified cream formulations in various bases and active ingredient systems serve as a starting point. Brands see early on which base fits the planned positioning.
In-depth sources: The legal basis for all cosmetic products distributed in the EU is the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. In Germany, the health assessment of ingredients is the responsibility of the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR). Industry information and market data are published by the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW).
The 5-stage process for a face cream
Conceptualization: Selection of the cream base, the active ingredient system, and the target sensory profile based on brand promise, target group, and price point. Allocation to a matching formulation base from the Labtree pool.
sampling: Standard samples of pre-qualified formulations are shipped within 24 hours from the sample warehouse, free of charge for clients. First sensory evaluation of real products.
Individualization: Targeted adjustment of active ingredient concentration, sensory profile, fragrance. Iterative sample variants until the sensory profile is a perfect fit.
Prototyping: Test batch in production-like size. In parallel, packaging, design, regulatory requirements, and production readiness are considered early on, instead of only being addressed after final formulation release.
Production: Scaling to final batch size, transition to routine production. Because production readiness was already considered during the prototyping phase, the final step is carried out in a coordinated manner.
Related articles: Have anti-aging cream produced · Have day cream produced · Have night cream produced
Own cream formulations in the pool: Do stability-tested bases already exist in different textures and active ingredient systems, or does every development start from scratch?
In-house laboratory: Can sensory profile and active ingredient adjustments be made in-house, or do they have to be commissioned externally?
Sampling speed: Standard samples within 24 hours is a realistic benchmark. At Labtree, shipping is also free of charge.
Early parallel consideration: Packaging selection, stability protocol, and regulatory preparation should run parallel to the formulation adjustment, instead of being addressed only after final approval.
Scalability: From the test batch to large-scale production without interface disruption.
Having face cream produced is a project that can be planned well if the strategic decisions (cream base, active ingredient system, sensory profile) are made early on and are based on a pre-qualified formulation base. Anyone who considers packaging and regulatory preparation in parallel with the formulation will reach market launch in 2 to 4 months.
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FAQ
Does Labtree have its own laboratory?
Yes. Labtree has its own development expertise, including a laboratory. This means that formulations can not only be selected, but specifically developed, tested, and adjusted. Additionally, smaller test batches can be produced in-house in order to validate products early on in real conditions and safely transfer them to production.
Which cream base is the right one?
That depends on the skin type and brand promise. O/W emulsions for lightweight daily-use care, W/O emulsions for dry skin, gel-creams for combination skin and summer care. Anhydrous balms and lamellar structures are suitable for premium positioning.
Which active ingredients should be in a face cream?
That depends on the positioning. For general hydration: hyaluron, glycerin, panthenol. For anti-aging: peptides, retinol derivatives, vitamin E. For sensitive skin: centella, niacinamide, allantoin. More than 3 to 4 active active ingredients dilute the brand message.
How long does the development of a face cream take?
For White Label on a pre-qualified formulation basis: 2 to 3 months. Individual new development: 3 to 6 months. Decisive factors are stability tests, sensory profile iterations, and, if applicable, skin compatibility studies.
What minimum quantity is realistic?
For standard packaging 1,000 to 5,000 pieces per product, with specialized containers such as airless pumps correspondingly higher. Test batches from approx. 1,000 to 2,000 pieces are possible for market validation.
How much does a face cream cost to produce?
Project-dependent. Unit costs for White Label with standard packaging are typically 2.50 to 6 EUR for a medium batch size. Initial costs include stability tests, skin compatibility tests, and regulatory documentation. For Private Label with an individual active ingredient combination, the initial costs are higher.
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