Have eyeliner produced: How brands strategically combine format, drying time and lasting power
Have eyeliner produced: How brands strategically combine format, drying time and lasting power
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CEO & Founder at Labtree GmbH
Eyeliner requires a special balance of precise application, fast drying, and long wear. The format, pigment system, and drying time determine whether the eyeliner is suitable for everyday use or only works for special occasions.
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The format (liquid, pencil, gel, pen) determines the application, drying time, and packaging. This is the most important initial decision.
Pigment dispersion and drying time are critical performance levers, especially for liquid and pen formats.
With formulation basis and early parallel consideration: 3 to 5 months to market launch.
The first strategic decision is the format. Three dominant options plus special forms:
Liquid Eyeliner: highest precision, intense color depth, often with a felt tip or fine brush. Water-based or solvent-based formulation. Brand promise: sharp lines, dramatic look.
Pencil Eyeliner: soft pencil with a wax-pigment blend. Easy application, highly blendable. Also suitable for kohl application (waterline). Brand promise: suitable for everyday use, blendable.
Gel Eyeliner: in a small pot, applied with a separate brush. High pigmentation, long-lasting. Brand promise: professional makeup.
Pen / Felt-Tip Eyeliner: pen format with a felt tip, pre-filled reservoir. Combination of liquid precision and pencil practicality.
Kajahl: soft pencil especially for the waterline, often wax-based without solvents.
Eyeliner format determines application and sensory profile
The first strategic decision is the format. Three dominant options plus special forms:
Liquid Eyeliner: highest precision, intense color depth, often with a felt tip or fine brush. Water-based or solvent-based formulation. Brand promise: sharp lines, dramatic look.
Pencil Eyeliner: soft pencil with a wax-pigment blend. Easy application, highly blendable. Also suitable for kohl application (waterline). Brand promise: suitable for everyday use, blendable.
Gel Eyeliner: in a small pot, applied with a separate brush. High pigmentation, long-lasting. Brand promise: professional makeup.
Pen / Felt-Tip Eyeliner: pen format with a felt tip, pre-filled reservoir. Combination of liquid precision and pencil practicality.
Kajahl: soft pencil especially for the waterline, often wax-based without solvents.
Pigment dispersion and color intensity
Eyeliner requires particularly high pigment concentration for intense color in a narrow line:
Carbon Black: most intense black tone, standard for classic eyeliners.
Iron Oxides: Black, Brown, Burgundy. Milder alternative to Carbon Black.
Ultramarine, Manganese Violet: for colored eyeliners (Blue, Violet). Regulated for the eye area.
Mica and pearlescent pigments: for shimmering statement eyeliners.
Pigment dispersion is critical here: poorly dispersed pigments clog felt tips or leave uneven lines. Three-roll milling is standard. Typical pigment concentrations: 15 to 30 percent (liquid), 20 to 35 percent (gel), 5 to 15 percent (pencil, because the wax content dominates here).
Drying time and lasting power
Drying time is a key performance driver. It determines how quickly the eyeliner becomes smudge-proof:
Fast drying (under 60 seconds): Standard for liquid eyeliners. Achieved through volatile components (water, light esters, cyclomethicones) and film formers.
Medium drying (2 to 5 minutes): Typical for gel eyeliners. Enough time for blending, then it sets.
Slow drying / permanently creamy: For pencils and kajal, as they must be blendable.
Lasting power is achieved through:
Film formers: Polymer components (e.g. acrylate copolymers) that form a flexible film.
Waxes: In pencil formulations for adhesion to the skin.
Silicones: In waterproof formulations for water and sweat resistance.
Eye safety and skin compatibility
Eyeliner comes into direct contact with the eye, especially during waterline application (kajal). Three requirements:
Eye-compatible preservation: low in preservatives, hypoallergenic tested. Wax-based pencils are often free of preservatives.
Ophthalmologically tested: testing for eye compatibility by certified laboratories. Recommended for marketing claims.
Contact lens compatibility: advice recommended because many consumers wear contact lenses.
For water-based liquid eyeliners, a challenge test according to ISO 11930 is mandatory, similar to mascara.
Time and cost variables
White Label based on pre-qualified formulation: 3 to 4 months, unit costs from approx. 1.50 to 5 EUR (depending on format, packaging, batch size)
Individual new development: 4 to 6 months, higher initial costs for pigment matching, challenge tests and skin compatibility studies
Typical MOQ: 5,000 to 15,000 pieces (packaging MOQ is the deciding factor), lower for standard pencil format
At Labtree, pre-qualified eyeliner formulations in different formats serve as a starting point. The pigment system and lasting power profile are customized to the brand positioning.
In-depth sources: The legal basis for all cosmetic products marketed in the EU is the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. The health assessment of ingredients in Germany is the responsibility of the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR). Industry information and market data are published by the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW).
The 5-phase process for an eyeliner
Conceptualization: Selection of the eyeliner format, shades, and lasting power profile based on brand promises, target group, and price point. Assignment to a matching formulation basis from the Labtree pool.
sampling: Standard samples of pre-qualified formulations are shipped from the sample warehouse within 24 hours, free of charge for customers. Initial evaluation of application, drying, and hold.
Individualization: Targeted adjustment of pigment concentration, drying time, lasting power, and sensory profile. Iterative sample variants until precision and hold are correct.
Prototyping: Test batch in production-like size. In parallel, packaging (felt tip brush, pen, pencil mechanism), design, regulatory requirements, and production feasibility are considered early, instead of only being addressed after final formulation approval.
Production: Scaling to final batch size, transition to routine production. Because production feasibility was already considered in the prototyping phase, the final step is carried out in a coordinated manner.
Related articles: Have mascara produced · Have foundation produced · Have concealer produced
In-house eyeliner formulations in the pool: Do stability-tested bases already exist for different formats (liquid, pencil, gel), or does every development start from scratch?
Pigment dispersion expertise: Experience with high pigment concentrations, three-roll mills or bead mills, eye-safe pigments.
Packaging sourcing: Access to felt tips, pen reservoirs, pencil mechanisms in various qualities.
Eye tolerance expertise: Experience with ophthalmological testing and preservative optimization.
Sampling speed: Standard samples within 24 hours is a realistic benchmark. Shipping with Labtree is also free of charge.
Early parallel consideration: Packaging selection, stability protocol, and regulatory preparation should run in parallel with formulation adaptation, instead of being addressed only after final approval.
Having eyeliner produced is a project that can be planned well if the strategic decisions (format, pigment system, drying time, packaging) are made early and are based on a pre-qualified formulation base. Anyone who considers packaging compatibility and regulatory preparation alongside the formulation can launch within 3 to 5 months.
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FAQ
Does Labtree have its own laboratory?
Yes. Labtree has its own development expertise, including a laboratory. This means that formulations can not only be selected, but specifically developed, tested, and adjusted. Additionally, smaller test batches can be produced in-house in order to validate products early on in real conditions and safely transfer them to production.
Which eyeliner format is the right one?
Liquid eyeliner for maximum precision and sharp lines, pencil for an everyday and blendable look, gel for professional makeup with brush application, pen format as a compromise between precision and practicality. The choice depends on the brand's target audience.
How important is the drying time?
Very important for liquid and pen eyeliners. A drying time of under 60 seconds is standard, as the eyeliner must be smudge-proof after that. For gel eyeliners, a medium drying time (2 to 5 minutes) is ideal, because blending takes time. Pencil and kajal should remain permanently creamy.
How long does it take to develop an eyeliner?
For White Label based on pre-qualified formulations: 3 to 4 months. Individual new development: 4 to 6 months. Crucial factors are pigment dispersion, lasting power tests, eye compatibility testing, and for water-based liquid eyeliners, challenge tests according to ISO 11930.
What minimum quantity is realistic?
Typically 5,000 to 15,000 pieces, because packaging MOQs for felt-tip and pen barrels are high. A standard pencil format can be realized with lower MOQs starting at 3,000 pieces. Test launches with a reduced number of SKUs are one way to reduce the investment.
How much does it cost to produce an eyeliner?
Project-dependent. Unit costs for White Label with a standard pencil typically 1.50 to 3 EUR, for liquid eyeliner with a felt tip 2.50 to 5 EUR for a medium batch size. Initial costs include pigment matching, stability testing, skin compatibility studies, and regulatory documentation.
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