The topic is short and compact
Cationic surfactants such as behentrimonium methosulfate are usually used at one to three percent and determine wet combability.
The effective window is between pH 3.5 and 5.5; outside of this, the active ingredient no longer attaches reliably.
An adaptation based on a pre-qualified formulation takes two to three months, a new development three to six.
So läuft die Entwicklung bei Labtree
1
Konzeptionierung
2
Bemusterung – Standardmuster in 24 h
3
Individualisierung
4
Prototyping
5
Produktion
White Label 2–3 Monate · Private Label 3–6 Monate · Produktion ab 1.000 Stück
Washed, wet hair carries a negative surface charge. In the case of bleached, heat-damaged, or weathered hair, this charge is significantly stronger because exposed cysteic acid groups increase the charge. This is precisely where the conditioner comes in.
Cationic surfactants, i.e. quaternary ammonium compounds or amidoamines, carry a positive charge and attach themselves to this negative surface. This creates a hydrophobic, monomolecular layer that reduces friction between the fibers, prevents static buildup, and smooths the raised cuticle.
Behentrimonium methosulfate and cetrimonium chloride as a common base, one to three percent.
Effective window pH 3.5 to 5.5, as the attachment is charge-dependent.
Damaged hair binds more active ingredient than healthy hair, which influences the dosage.
The active principle: why conditioner actually works
Washed, wet hair carries a negative surface charge. In the case of bleached, heat-damaged, or weathered hair, this charge is significantly stronger because exposed cysteic acid groups increase the charge. This is precisely where the conditioner comes in.
Cationic surfactants, i.e. quaternary ammonium compounds or amidoamines, carry a positive charge and attach themselves to this negative surface. This creates a hydrophobic, monomolecular layer that reduces friction between the fibers, prevents static buildup, and smooths the raised cuticle.
Behentrimonium methosulfate and cetrimonium chloride as a common base, one to three percent.
Effective window pH 3.5 to 5.5, as the attachment is charge-dependent.
Damaged hair binds more active ingredient than healthy hair, which influences the dosage.
The care complex: proteins, humectants, and lipids
The cationic surfactants provide combability and smoothness. The actual conditioning effect comes from a second system that addresses structure, moisture, and lipids. The molecular size is crucial here.
Hydrolyzed proteins from wheat, silk, quinoa, or keratin are used at 0.5 to 3 percent. Only below about 1,000 Daltons do they penetrate into the cortex and improve tensile elasticity. High-molecular-weight hydrolysates around 50,000 Daltons remain on the surface and have a film-forming effect. Both are useful, but they are two different effects.
Hydrolysates under 1,000 Daltons act in the cortex, larger fractions are film-forming.
Humectants bind water, but need a counterweight against swelling.
Vegetable triglycerides replace washed-out hair lipids.
Which active ingredients can be reliably claimed is covered in EU cosmetic claims.
Silicone or silicone-free: a positioning decision
The silicone question is less of a professional and more of a positioning decision, but it has significant technical consequences. Conventional formulations use silicones at one to five percent. Dimethicone provides shine and dry combability, cyclomethicone evaporates after application and leaves a light feeling, while amodimethicone targets damaged areas.
Silicone-free formulations must replicate these effects using plant-based lipids, fatty alcohols, and ester oils. This is possible, but requires more development effort and rarely leads to an identical sensory profile. Anyone developing for Curly Girl-compliant or Clean Beauty ranges should determine this early on, as it dictates the entire formulation architecture.
Silicones at one to five percent, with clearly different functions depending on the type.
Silicone-free is feasible, but not identical in terms of its sensory profile.
The decision is made before formulation development, not after.
Application, washability, and packaging
Viscosity and flow behavior determine how the product behaves in the shower. A daily conditioner is designed for an application time of one to five minutes and should rinse out without leaving any residue. Treatments and masks work with a higher lipid and active ingredient content and need five to ten minutes.
The fragrance is usually dosed at 0.3 to 0.8 percent. This is sufficient for the impression in the shower and a lingering scent in dry hair. However, fragrance oils act as plasticizers and solvents, which is why their skin compatibility with the packaging material must be tested separately.
Application time of one to five minutes in everyday use, five to ten for treatments.
Fragrance dosage 0.3 to 0.8 percent, with testing of packaging material compatibility.
Tube, pump bottle, and jar behave differently during filling.
Timeframes, costs, and minimum quantities
The fastest way is through a pre-qualified base. The emulsion has already passed the stability test, with fragrance, active ingredient accents, and packaging being adapted. A realistic timeframe here is two to three months until production.
A true new development takes three to six months because the twelve-week stability test only starts after formulation approval. There is no universally applicable minimum quantity: it depends on packaging, filling process, and formulation complexity. A smaller pilot batch allows demand to be tested before a full series is commissioned.
Pre-qualified base: two to three months until production.
New development: three to six months including stability testing.
Minimum quantity depends on the packaging, not a fixed rule.
What minimum quantities actually result from is explained in MOQ in der Kosmetik.
Regulations and Scope of Audit
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 applies to placing products on the EU market. Before market access, the product information file must be available, the core of which is the cosmetic product safety report. For rinse-off products, the focus of the assessment is on the toxicological profile, the skin and eye irritation potential, and the efficacy of preservation.
Preservation is verified by the preservation efficacy test according to ISO 11930. In addition, there are labeling requirements, in particular the declaration of ingredients according to INCI and the specification of fragrance allergens subject to declaration.
Product information file and safety report prior to placing on the market.
Preservation efficacy test according to ISO 11930 as proof of preservation.
INCI declaration and labeling of fragrance allergens subject to declaration.
The complete procedure is described in EU Cosmetics Regulation, CPNP and PIF.
The process follows five stages that build upon one another. It begins with the technical briefing: hair type, active ingredient concept, silicone decision, viscosity target, budget, and packaging. This is followed by the laboratory phase with samples, where wet combability, sensory profile, and pH management are evaluated.
Subsequently, the stability test runs over twelve weeks, freeze-thaw cycles, stress tests, and packaging compatibility. Only then do the pilot batch and series production follow. If one of these stages is skipped, the error typically only shows up in the first series delivery.
Technical briefing with binding silicone and packaging decisions.
Laboratory phase with samples in the candidate container.
Testing phase, then pilot batch, then series.
How to secure the transition to series production is shown in Scaling via the pilot batch.
Having conditioners manufactured is a highly predictable project if the strategic decisions (cationic surfactants, care complex, silicone strategy, texture) are made early on and are built upon a pre-qualified formulation base. Anyone who considers packaging compatibility and regulatory preparation in parallel with the formulation can achieve a market launch in 2 to 4 months.
More useful links
FAQ
Why are cationic surfactants indispensable in conditioners?
Because they carry the active principle. Wet hair is negatively charged; positively charged surfactants like Behentrimonium Methosulfate attach to it and form a thin film that smoothes the cuticle, reduces friction, and prevents static charge. Without them, there is no improvement in combability.
How long should you leave a conditioner in?
A normal conditioner takes one to five minutes, which is sufficient for the cationic surfactants to attach. Treatments and masks with a higher lipid content require five to ten minutes so that the nourishing ingredients can completely coat the cuticle.
Are silicone-free conditioners better?
Not fundamentally. Silicones such as dimethicone and amodimethicone provide heat protection and lubricity at a usage level of one to five percent, which are difficult to replace. Silicone-free formulations make sense for natural cosmetics and curly girl positioning, but require more development effort for a comparable sensory profile.
What are the minimum quantities for hair care?
There is no fixed number. The minimum quantity depends on packaging materials, filling processes, suppliers, and formulation complexity; tubes, pump bottles, and jars all behave differently. For market entry, demand can be tested with a smaller pilot batch.
How much does a conditioner based on an existing formulation cost?
For a pre-qualified base, the unit price is usually between 2.00 and 4.50 Euros, depending on the packaging and quantity. This route takes two to three months, while a completely new development requires three to six months.
Which tests are mandatory before the launch?
Stability testing over twelve weeks in the final packaging, freeze-thaw cycles, the challenge test according to ISO 11930 to prove preservation, as well as packaging compatibility. The results are incorporated into the safety report and thus into the product information file.
